Walnut Fattbaby 1x12

Discussion in 'Cabinets & Speakers' started by Geeze, May 30, 2020.

  1. Geeze

    Geeze Well-Known Member

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    On another forum that will remain unnamed [don't judge...] there was a discussion about cabinet resonance and what the ball park for 'ideal' was. Zilla Cabs products were mentioned particularly the Fatbaby that I am using the cab dimensions from - 22 x 16.125 x 14.125". The plan is to put an EVM12L in it to see how it compares to a TL806 with the same speaker. And I was bored. Plus I had a nice shiny [not really shiny yet] piece of figured walnut that had been whispering to me for the past week. Hard.

    So rough cut -

    [​IMG]

    Run through the drum sander -

    [​IMG]

    Now to figure out what contrasting wood to use on the inner ring / baffle surround and also the trademark corner blocks. Here is paduak and Caribbean rosewood. Another thought was to use up some figured maple as a reversed image to include the corner blocks.

    [​IMG]

    Russ
     
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  2. CoyotesGator

    CoyotesGator Well-Known Member

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    Whatever my day brought me, your builds always make them better.

    I knew I should have bought more popcorn...
     
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  3. Drinkingdeath01

    Drinkingdeath01 Well-Known Member

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    Your exactly right.

    Russ, your woodworking skills are top notch and I really love your creativity.

    Keep up the good work, I love your posts !!!
     
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  4. dragonvalve

    dragonvalve Well-Known Member

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    Perfect time to keep the old noodle lucid and the hands creating.

    I don't have a shop but like working on things like this.

    If it were my shop, since it's solid wood I'd try building the cab with thin walls not the usual 3/4" maybe 1/4" or 3/8" to get the cab to resonate. Baffle board could be 3/4".

    Will tongue and groove? Open back?
     
  5. Geeze

    Geeze Well-Known Member

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    5/8" seems to be the thinnest most MFG's will go on speaker cabs. The big sides tend to require bracing to control unwanted resonance. Plus that would be a lot of trips through the drum sander with 15/16" stock. I don't use planners or routers [too much noise] as I'm massively bending the rules in the townhouse complex with a wood shop as it is.

    This Fattbaby will get finger joints [because I like them] and closed back for a number of reasons -
    • I prefer closed back
    • Open backs tend to create phase issues most noticeable in smaller rooms - 85% of it's use
    • This is a test of an 'oversize' cab vs. an acoustically engineered ported cab
    Russ
     
  6. Geeze

    Geeze Well-Known Member

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    FUBAR strikes again!

    I wrote down the dims for both the Fatbaby and the 1x12 ported. What did I use for the height?!?

    You guessed it - the shorter cab. Everything else was fine. After a bit of moaning, power words and a brief think on the ported cab I decided to power on with an artful fix - more padauk -

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    In the spirit of art I also didn't center the padauk.

    Russ
     
  7. ampeq

    ampeq Well-Known Member

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    That is a nice piece of black walnut, I have some squirreled away myself for cab & head combo. Purple heart works well with it if you can find a good piece.
     
  8. Geeze

    Geeze Well-Known Member

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    Lots of fiddling around and not much progress.

    Got the baffle bead sized and cut to angle the baffle up 5° or so. I set the fence to the finish width [1.75"] and then tape a 1/2" block on one end to push off the fence for the angle.

    [​IMG]

    Here are the beads cut.

    [​IMG]

    What I did't take pics of is the corner block cut/shape & glue up and the trimming of the sides and top to incorporate the added bits of padauk on the sides. More sanding of the sides to level the padauk in preparation for finger joints.

    A posed pic of the Fattbaby.

    [​IMG]

    I'm curious if Zilla centers the speaker or has it offset?

    Russ
     
  9. Geeze

    Geeze Well-Known Member

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    Finger joint time. I use a Freud carbide set and a homemade jig / stolen design from the www. New to me in my never ending quest for clamps is a set of Krieg Automax 6" clamps. Gonna sound like an infomercial but these things are sweet - self adjusting with 1.5" pads just chock full of clamping goodness...

    OK, I'm back. The jig -

    [​IMG]

    The clamps of goodness -

    [​IMG]

    The finger jointed [58 in all] Fattbaby -

    [​IMG]

    A couple of pics featuring the angled bead for the baffle -

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Tomorrow will be cutting the corner block notches then sanding to 3/4" and gluing.

    Russ
     
  10. SkyMonkey

    SkyMonkey Well-Known Member

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  11. Geeze

    Geeze Well-Known Member

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    Tonight was consumed by milling/sanding the sides and top down. Boring but necessary.

    [​IMG]

    Then working on rounding the corner cuts with a 3/8" forstner bit. I cut the sides 'short'

    [​IMG]

    Then drilled out the corner

    [​IMG]

    I miss my milling machine with it's index-able X/Y table top. Made sneaking up on things like this easy. I plan to drill the corner short and sand it to the flat cuts thinking that it will be easier to sand a round than a pair of flat sides and keep them square.

    That's all the shenanigans tonight.

    Russ
     
  12. Geeze

    Geeze Well-Known Member

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    Corners notched and drilled out. The hole is offset about .005" to allow a bit of sanding to smooth the transition to the flats.

    [​IMG]

    Here's the first bits glued up.

    [​IMG]

    I was laughing at myself as the cabs keep getting more complicated rather than easier to build. I've said it numerous times - this amount of effort on a guitar I'd make it all the way to good enough.

    Russ
     
  13. clutch71

    clutch71 Well-Known Member

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    Lot's of cab sizes out there. I built a cab that was 18.5"x20"x11" (4070 in3) which is close your volume @ 5010 in3 and sounds great. While I'm sure the conversation was riveting....I'm just here for your builds as always.
     
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  14. Geeze

    Geeze Well-Known Member

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    Corner time.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Corner block fitting time. I sanded a 3/8"ish round on two edges to fit the notches. Until the last cab where I glued up all four on the top then the bottom - not all were square, luckily power sanding tools rectified that - I elected to go slow - yes it's killing me - and glue up two at a time.

    [​IMG]

    I forgo the pic of three clamps holding each block in place as you can't see the block.

    Russ
     
  15. Geeze

    Geeze Well-Known Member

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    More details as I prep for Saturday.

    The top corner blocks have 3/8"ish round overs cut on a 12" disk sander on two edges -

    [​IMG]

    The bottom blocks are only rounded on one edge -

    [​IMG]

    Tomorrow will be milling and cutting to fit the inside baffle bead of padauk, the front and rear edges for the bottom and the fake fingers for the bottom finger joints. And lots and lots of gluing.

    Russ
     
  16. Geeze

    Geeze Well-Known Member

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    More boring details. These bits need to get milled to varying widths and thicknesses - I use an 18" drum sander. It allows me to creep up on finished dimensions easily.

    [​IMG]

    The bottom corners are glued in. Due to all of the separate pieces - particularly the corner blocks that are oversize to allow sanding to fit - this is a PITA to glue up. Lots of SWAG alignments going on.

    [​IMG]

    The front and back walnut trim pieces - these need to be aligned to the bottom finger jointed sides and the front and back edges.

    [​IMG]

    Then the bottom plywood bit as I refuse to put beautiful wood where no one will see it even though it would make the construction / assembly much easier.

    [​IMG]

    I've only glued the front and back edges of the plywood as the sides have some unhappiness in the form of varying thickness due to the sawmill didn't mill both sides remotely flat. I plan to glue in the fake fingers and then fill in the gaps with epoxy.

    Russ
     
  17. CoyotesGator

    CoyotesGator Well-Known Member

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    Fantastic!
     
  18. Geeze

    Geeze Well-Known Member

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    The baffle bead is cut, milled and glued. Of course I have to a 'Got Clamps?' photo -

    [​IMG]

    Tomorrow the baffle backer, baffle, back plate baffle and back plate will be cut. Maybe some sanding.

    Russ
     
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  19. wakjob

    wakjob Well-Known Member

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    The only "wood" working skills I have aren't suitable for discussing in an amp forum...:naughty:

    But it's always been in the back of my mind to build an MG sized/compact 4x12 with some proper 13 ply birch ect...
     
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  20. Geeze

    Geeze Well-Known Member

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    Don't let your meatloaf...

    If you can make straight and right angled cuts building with wood isn't all that hard. When you go for the 12° angled top baffle on an A cab it gets more interesting for instance...

    My favorite woodworking quote from the man who taught me more than I ever taught him when he was asked 'how did you manage to build such beautiful work?' His answer - 'Because I'm willing to fuck shit up on the way to getting here...'

    Russ
     

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