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Discussion in 'Marshall Amps' started by ALLsteven, Jun 6, 2018.
Maybe the 40CR is their way of apologizing for having a flaky 20CR
This is what I always thought Marshalls’ reasoning was, although I do think a 40 watt head would be welcomed.
Some here have even made their Dsl40 combos into heads.
So I’ve had the reverb right off, turned volume up and down, gain up and down, unplugged all foot switch, FX loop and pulled the input. No effect at all. Turned off all lights and any other appliances in the room. No effect. Only stand by stops it.
Ive had the amp on for over an hour as I watched the Italian F1 sprint race and it was silent for the first 30 minutes or so, then went crazy crackly and popping like mad….and now silent again for another half hour or so. Maddening!
Right, right. Have you tapped the valves and perhaps replaced them? If you slap the amp (don't beat the hell out of it, obviously) on the top or sides, does that incur the or defeat the noise?
EDIT: The ancient art of the slap is an often underrated or overlooked method of diagnosis in repairing electronics. (tm)
Percussive maintenance is what I've been told it's called.
Sorry, late to the discussion, but I also have a DSL20H (week 08-20 date) that I have no issues with.
If you (@ITburst) are still running stock tubes, that would be the first thing I would suggest taking a look at like @PelliX has suggested.
I've changed out all my stock tubes to new JJ 823,83,83 - 6CA7s.
The tubes can all be changed without pulling the chassis, and the power tubes do not need biased.
There's no shield on V1, but you could experiment with shielding it with a simple foil tent to see if there's some external interference contributing to your issues.
I have tapped the amp. Nothing. As far as opening it up goes, not sure I want to get into that when I still have the full warranty to option.
I do see that the shop I bought from has another location showing one in stock. I will call when they open today to see about a straight swap of the head.
@ITburst, Have you tried the amp in another outlet or another room, sometimes the current in a certain outlet or room can interfere with an amp.
Just confirmed the swap. I’ll update later with the new head.
Inspecting and changing valves is considered regular maintenance and does not void the warranty, so you may remove the back panel. Removing the chassis would void the warranty, technically. Just FYI.
A pathethc apology. Apologize with a head, Marshall!
I did it on mine and still get a full refund. Still didn't help.
What can I say, my DSL20 has been a 100% trouble-free amp so far. The emulated out is a joke and the reverb is like a bonfire at the beach, but the rest is solid.
That said, I believe one of the pots is starting to scratch a little bit. When confirmed, I'm going to replace them all with non board mounted full size pots. There should be room on the front panel, and I won't need to unscrew the pots anymore if I want to get at the board in the future.
You're going to do it yourself?
I'm bad with a soldering iron.
It's nice when you can repair or modify your own stuff.
A gain pot in my SL5 is scratching, I'll try a contact spray first.
Yup, I hate to think about the costs of paying people to do all sorts of stuff. If I need something done, I've just always gone ahead and learned it.
I don't know what kind of pots are in there, but if they're the 'micro-pot' sealed type like in the DSL's that won't help a lot. It wouldn't surprise me, I'm afraid. If you go down the replacing route, I'd go for full size - board mounted or not.
@PelliX I've taken the PCB out of my DSL20HR and I'm not certain if going to off board pots will make it easier to remove or not. It might but I don't know. I think they might have slid the PCB in from the end opposite the power transformer. They're the snap in pots. With the pot shafts on the front and stand up filter caps on the back it doesn't come out very easily from the top. They didn't leave much room with the lips bent in along the top of the front and back. They may have slid it in from the end under the lips. So if you're thinking you can lift the back of the PCB up and flop it over the front when using wired pots without removing the pots you might be able to do that but maybe not. I plan to take mine out again over the coming week or two and do some more experimenting. I'll look at that.
It's been while since I had it open for inspection, but I'll check it when I get that far - thanks for the pointer, nonetheless! Even if it doesn't make board removal easier, I'd still rather have pots that I can (easily) remove/replace one by one.
When you say
what exactly do you mean?
It hisses with a very faint crackle in the background when you turn it up. It's just noise on the DFX board and perhaps the leads. Personally, I have it around 5 to 6, any less and you don't know whether it's on, but any more and you get the beach effect (sans seagulls).