TSL100!?!?!?!?!?

Discussion in 'Marshall Amps' started by LuredMaul, Jul 23, 2019.

  1. The Dose of Harmony

    The Dose of Harmony Well-Known Member

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    If you want to think thats thats ok!
    I just want to tell you that a Healthy Tsl 100 works for me it used to be my top 1 marshall
    But i got a Jmp later and a 6100lm
    And i found the weak spots of the Tsl
    Chunch channel was the biggest one it never
    Work for me and the Fx loop so noise
    Later the noise and all that bullshit , later a got new board , and its kick ass !

    a few months back i also bought the others boards but i havent installed yet but i will some day!
    But what really want to share its that what ever comes out of speakers its a echosystem!
    You guitar , pick ups have a huge impact on that maybe you should consider that !
    Probably in your echosystem the Tsl does not work right or not for you!
    Maybe its working against you and i can see what you think that!
    For me i put a les paul eith 57 on red channel or clean and sounds bad ass!
    Cheers
     
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  2. LargeBoxSmallBox

    LargeBoxSmallBox Well-Known Member

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    Yes, exactly! For me, this TSL 100 was not good. I had issues with it breaking, and the distortion was very fizzy sounding. I never knew about replacing the PCB, and I'm not sure I would have gone to that trouble, since I had acquired vintage Marshalls that I really loved. I've spun many amps out of my house that I didn't love. I just don't have room to keep all the amps I have ever owned, LOL. The preamp tube replacement worked well to tame most of the fizz, but it still did not suit me for what I look for in my Marshalls. It's a personal taste thing. I totally get that there are many TSL users that love them. I helped a friend of mine get one to gig with, mainly because he wanted a 100-watt Marshall and didn't have much money (TSL's sell for around $500 where I live). He gigged with it for a long while (until it died!), and he always sounded pretty good with his band. I gave him a vintage 12AY7 to reduce the fizz after he bought it, and it worked well for him. I just personally did not care for the amp, or the problems I found in my copy.
     
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  3. Vesperado

    Vesperado Member

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    I had my 2001 TSL-100 given to me as a present in high school that same year. My first *and main* tube amp. Some things require a little effort for a big reward.

    I first experienced an issue with the footswitch in 2008. I paid someone to fix it, they did more or less. They also went into my amp and did some other things, shotty work I later came to find. I replaced the trannies and installed a choke myself, to include beefing up the HT recto with FREDs. It worked fine so I wired it for 230VAC and took it down to South America with me for a few years. The footswitch failed once more during a jam. I left it down there for nine years where it collected dust. My dear mother decided to air freight it back up along with all my other gear.

    I remember reading about the bias run away years ago and ON A WHIM decided to look into it, seeing I had this georgous Marshall sitting in the living. Having stumbled across a few pages of good info, I decided to prepare my amp for the worse, seeing how an Issue 20 board goes for a leg from CE Distro and how Marshall WILL NOT sell to me direct. While I was preparing my parts list, I ordered a quad of H75 creambacks, and it was at that moment (having tested them out) I knew this amp would abide with me until I leave God's green earth, provided no one should steal it before then. Anyways, the parts were about 4 USD from Arrow, the Fan 20 USD on ebay, the 120VAC solder iron 30 USD off Amazon, and last but not least, the VariAC (autotranny) 55 USD. So far I get to keep my leg.

    I labeled all the connectors, removed all the boards which I needed to work on, had all the parts on hand, and got to. Tested each component with my multimeter, checked continuities, &c. &c. I isolated Pin 5 V5-8 via drilling motes, replaced R2-10, 66-70, 78 with 2 watt metal films, corrected the shotty work from that guy in SoCal--what a mess, reinforced high current flow points, and so forth. Raised the Pin 5 resistors off the board, bare legged so as to stay cool via air, and moved two other resistors over to raised positions at V5. This was recommended by some techs.

    My 2001 came loaded with an Issue 5 mainboard. The only discoloration I found was around V2-4 on the copper traces. I reinforced the traces connecting to the DC heater recto. I also drilled vent holes on the side of the bare steel plate which covers the mainboard facing the back of the amp. The power tube section of the board: brand new looking. I mounted a low-powered 92x25mm AC fan on the protective steel screen, expells air from V5-8. But these days I got two 140mm DC fans hanging off the back (being summertime here). So far so good.

    I had problems drilling the Face Plate and steel chassis, which they hardened (yet did not harden the top surface, strange) and for this reason broke a steel drill bit, scratching the Face Plate AGGHHHH. I found out the hard way. Used Ti bits to finish up. Got to get the hardned steel hot to penetrate it, unlike the top of the chassis. When I finished this (the most laborious and testing part of the process) I had to carefully clean out the debris logged between the actual chassis and the Brushed Aluminum Face Plate which is glued with industrial strength adhesive. Used 90% Isopropyl to patiently detach the Face Plate from the Power switch to the Precense controls, and without bending it, removed the shards with a flat tip and burred the holes. Then resealed the Face Plate. All this for a 3/8" hole to fit my 100k Global NFB control on the Front Panel: a 2 watt Clarostat pot, 8 USD off ebay.

    I made the reverb decay equall on all channels, and removed some laggy channel switching issues. My Footswitch was a simple fix. Ordered a 6-pin DIN printer cable and cut it in two, spliced it with a 25 foot Cat6 cable (only 5 wires are needed), and soldered the other end at the board of the footswitch pedal. 20 USD off ebay. Saving the other half in event the Cat6 fails, I can make another one, or two or three or fourty. It's a lifetime supply and the Cat6 has a shielding of aluminum foil. No complaints there.

    So far I have saved over 400 USD on parts otherwise spent on aftermarket/distributor replacements.

    My amp now runs SOLID and BEAUTIFUL. Stable bias (67.2mADC a side FIRM), quiet operation (always feed it 115VAC off the VariAC off an 1kW Iso Tranny then into house), always grounded. Man does she *sing* and if I want, I have thunder and lightning at my command! Paired with those H75s and a Guyatone MM-1 into the clean channel WATCH OUT Tremonti !! I really like my HAO OD16 with it, too. The Deep is never depressed. Doesn't need a Deep. With the GNFBC I can dial in a response from JCM800 to a JTM100.

    If you want great cleans you will need to clip a few caps. Sorry. You could always install a switch to select between stock and mod, don't rule that option out.

    I pitty the nay-sayers. This amp just needed more time in RnR, there are obvious schematic errors probably due to inattention, and production faults probably due to the supply manager dropping the ball on stocking the right vaules. US import regs probably prompted a cheap solution for a pass-worthy PT. Be that as it may, to correct the errors in production is not difficult NOR expensive. My amp is proof. The greatest expense was the Mercury Magnetic upgrade, the new speakers, and new tubes.

    This will upset some, I use JJ E34L and ECC83S. One day I might roll Sovtek LPS, JJ E83CC, Sovtek WA, JJ 5751 which I got laying around, however, tubes are no longer inexpensive (nothing is really come to think of it). Yet for my setup they sound phenominal. And with THREE INDEPENDENT CHANNELS; TWO EFFECT LOOPS; 135 WATTS overall juice off 115 or 230V; 4, 8, 16 Ohm TAPS; and a Global NFB control, who am I to complain or want? I have it all! HAHA!

    Marshall JCM TSL-100 is my kind of AMP!
     
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  4. Vesperado

    Vesperado Member

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    Where did you find your rear board replacement?
     
  5. Vesperado

    Vesperado Member

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    Right on man!

    I almost sold mine to a GC in SoCal years ago for 750 USD. SO GLAD I didn't! :D

    What year is it?
     
  6. The Dose of Harmony

    The Dose of Harmony Well-Known Member

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    In order to update the rear board you have to buy the others one too !


    https://www.tubesandmore.com/
     
  7. Vesperado

    Vesperado Member

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    Well, looks like I will be breaking out the Ultra G to tap off of the OT to Cabinet and run an unbal TS low-Z from the XLR out into the "effects loop board", begining with a mono active volume pedal...and ending with a stereo delay pedal, to blend my (dry) amp with my "wet" stereo PA. I know the Send is always active so that affords me another option if I don't want power stage saturated tone: Cab Sim BABY! (Bob Zany voice). Yes, I even modified the voicing on that one as well. Call me nuts. Only downside is you cannot use the volume for swells running it like that, you need it to Return to the Phase Splitter (power stage).

    I know Michelle works there, maybe she can work something out for me...if not hopefully US Music Corps has got a solution, or perhaps I can just study a photo of the new revision (provided someone has got one) and tinker around with my Issue 6 board to make it work? Decisions decisions...
     
  8. The Dose of Harmony

    The Dose of Harmony Well-Known Member

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    i will try to get you some pics and numbers but for sure they are made with good materials and the right value i felt an improve just by replacing mainboard i need to replace the other boards to see a whole potential of a healthy TSL100 they been sitting in my room for a while and the thing its that i got many more amps too many maybe so i am enjoying those too..

    long life to the TSL100
     
  9. marshalltsl

    marshalltsl Well-Known Member

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    Long life to the TSL 100!!
    :rock:
     
  10. Vesperado

    Vesperado Member

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    I could definately use some pics (or a schematic) thats for sure.

    What people are not talking about on this forum is C36/37 on the Lead board. They are 63V types, they need to be 630V types. Ive come across this on three different tech pages. Marshall is silent on this. They are also silent on the fact that the Issue 20 mainboard is conductive just like the previous ones. There is a good article on this, cant remember which forum. So you will need to (still) isolate Pin 5 from the adjacent pin on the power tube sockets at the board. I removed mine entirely and took a drill to it and "moted" between those pins, allowing a nice gap of air between them on my Issue 5 board. Still applicable to every Issue. A company in the UK offers an aftermarket solution for the bias drift problem for the Issue 20 board. All they do is bypass the bias circuit on the mainboard and relocate it on a tougher PCB, and it looks like they supply the correct C36/37 types for the lead board as well, bypassing that circuit, too. I spent 4 USD to do the work myself, you could also. I used 2w metal films and a 3kV type for C46. 1kV is still not enough, should be 1.5kV min. So in short Marshall never fixed anything. Bummer.
     
  11. Vesperado

    Vesperado Member

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    So here is what I have found out concerning the rear/jack PCB: Jam Industries USA has a contact in MS who, I am told, can source the part. CE Distro (ie. tubeandmore) are their sales front. These are the folks you need to go through here stateside. Delivery may be delayed for up to two months current sit and all. TubeDepot does not source Marshall parts. The other "contacts" at JAM are unattainable, the server will reject your email unless you are on "the list". On top of that people are likely working from home. It is what it is. I am hoping to hear back from someone by next week.

    In the meantime, send me a pic or two if you got 'em. Thanks.
     
  12. marshalltsl

    marshalltsl Well-Known Member

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    They did many mistakes. My '98 TSL100 had 4 resistors with wrong value when I bought It. My exband guitar mate had a '99 TSL100 that sounded different than mine.
     
  13. Vesperado

    Vesperado Member

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    Were they the 220k values? That's what came on mine.
     
  14. marshalltsl

    marshalltsl Well-Known Member

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    Yes, 4 220K resistors. But I saw TSL100 schematics with this values. It's a mistery. The ROHS directive law could be one answer.
    "EU legislation restricting the use of hazardous substances in electrical and electronic equipment (EEE) and promoting the collection and recycling of such equipment has been in force since February 2003. The legislation provides for the creation of collection schemes where consumers return their used waste EEE free of charge. The objective of these schemes is to increase the recycling and/or re-use of such products. The legislation also requires certain hazardous substances (heavy metals such as lead, mercury, cadmium, and hexavalent chromium and flame retardants such as polybrominated biphenyls (PBB) or polybrominated diphenyl ethers (PBDE)) to be substituted by safer alternatives. Waste EEE poses environmental and health risks if inadequately treated. The RoHS and WEEE directives on electrical and electronic equipment were recast in 2011 and 2012 to tackle the fast increasing waste stream of such products. The aim is to increase the amount of waste EEE that is appropriately treated and to reduce the volume that goes to disposal."
     
  15. Vesperado

    Vesperado Member

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    Well, today I sat down at the bench with my TSL and went over component values from the schematic concerning the rear board. All mine tested out correct and within tolerance. My board is an Issue 4 which is the same as published on the Issue 6 schematic. I want to keep this topic going as there are many interested parties.

    I would like to get a copy of the latest revision's schematic to see what exactly Marshall did since Issue 6. I am hearing rumors about what they did, but I must verify what it is they did, rather than merely listen to rumors. I want to find out, as I am sure many would, if Marshall fixed the volume drop problem when rotating the dial on the front for the loop, as well as the noise, and if possible, if they made any improvements to the XLR recording out circuit.

    So far I am unaware of any information available online. I could really use either a schematic or front and back photos of the new board if someone has one in their amp.

    Let's figure this one out together!
     
  16. The Dose of Harmony

    The Dose of Harmony Well-Known Member

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    Dude i been really busy but inhave some photos somewhere and the schematics for the new boards just guve a chance this weekend i will look for them!
     
  17. Vesperado

    Vesperado Member

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    Sounds good.
     
  18. Vesperado

    Vesperado Member

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    I got a response from JAM USA today. It reads thus:

    "That part is no longer available."

    It is what it is.
     
  19. The Dose of Harmony

    The Dose of Harmony Well-Known Member

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    I guess the covid - shit fuck that one too!!!
     
  20. Vesperado

    Vesperado Member

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    Being 24 years old makes sense manufacturer support would come to an end...looks like we've come to rely upon each other via the forum?
     

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