The Vesperado Mod thread for the JCM2000 TSL-100

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Cool! The resolution when watching on my phone is not so good will try when I come home. Really appreciate you sharing.

Have a question. Iam currently working on the FX have changed a lot of things like jacks and and still having problems. I did the atomium mods for unity gain. The remaining problem is signal fluctuations in the fx signal in the A loop and some strange popping sounds hard to discribe like strange distortion/compression. The B loop is working. Also chasing some hum that I suspect to be related to the fx loop.

Having problems reading the schematic do you thing IC2 and 3 on the od board might be the problem? Tried to look for intermittent contact but everything seems to be fine so looking in to IC:s and optos and stuff like that? Any other idea’s?
 

Vesperado

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Cool! The resolution when watching on my phone is not so good will try when I come home. Really appreciate you sharing.

Have a question. Iam currently working on the FX have changed a lot of things like jacks and and still having problems. I did the atomium mods for unity gain. The remaining problem is signal fluctuations in the fx signal in the A loop and some strange popping sounds hard to discribe like strange distortion/compression. The B loop is working. Also chasing some hum that I suspect to be related to the fx loop.

Having problems reading the schematic do you thing IC2 and 3 on the od board might be the problem? Tried to look for intermittent contact but everything seems to be fine so looking in to IC:s and optos and stuff like that? Any other idea’s?
Happy to help :)

Sounds like a bad IC. I did socket mine a while back so if for some weird reason it went I would simply replace it with another. Try that and see if it helps. Also, double checking the entire FX circuit, Rear and Lead PCB, would be constructive to narrowing down problems. You have a dmm, so your half way there. Amazon sells capacitance meters dirt cheap. Aluminum caps leak over time, and why tantalum is preferred on that premise alone (plus it doesn't alter the tone much in comparison).

The only other thing I can think of of the top of my head is: stick to batteries/battery pack for powering up your pedals, both before the amp and in the loop, that will isolate hum from being injected into your signal.

Let me know if you find anything during or after your troubleshooting and I will see what I can do.
 

Vesperado

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Last minute corrections are hereby annotated: Reverb C6/12 removed, Lead IC4 changed, and Rear R39/41 adjusted. It is now published in the original file size, so depending on your ISP/browser it may take a minute to download.

Enjoy!
 
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Looking at your schematic revisions now and have some questions.
1. The changing of the inject point and removal of MB C24 regarding the clean channel. Is this possible without changing the switching circuit?
2. When you write remove I guess you mean remove and brake that part of the circuit?
3. When removing MB C9 the changes in C17/18 how much higher than your recommended values would you advice going if I like the tone/brightness?
4.I am changing MB C8,15,23,28,29 to sozos 500V(stock values) and C6-7 and C27to Vishay1813 630V 0.022 any thoughts? is there any of these positions that are more sensitive when it comes to voltage ratings? Other caps to upgrade on MB?
5. Looking at the clean/crunch/clean boards, any caps you would advise changing to MKT1813 or Sozos? Have already put the micas across vol.pot crunch/OD (atomium mods).
6.Regaring the improved filtering MB C1-4. Ive already did a full recap. Do you still think these caps should be changes to 4700u 16V? I have som hum issues? I have moded the heaters supply so that all preamp heaters comes of BR1 not just v1-2 and the bridge elevated of the board and 8A. Here is a link to the mod: https://valvetubeguitaramps.com/marshall-jcm2000-dsl-hum-solution/

Your newest post of the schematic was better resolution that your first! Really appreciate your work. I was about to give up on this amp before I found your thread . Now the amps working and the bias is stable just some final fixes: FX Loop, new reverb tank and some upgrades! This amp is really brutal! Running it with a weber 100w greenback H clone (Legacy 12) in a iso box and a weber mass 200 to take it down a bit. Now I am loving this amp. Have a 1966 super reverb that gathering dust right now. Hats of for all the work you did and all your posts!
 

Vesperado

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Looking at your schematic revisions now and have some questions.
1. The changing of the inject point and removal of MB C24 regarding the clean channel. Is this possible without changing the switching circuit?
2. When you write remove I guess you mean remove and brake that part of the circuit?
3. When removing MB C9 the changes in C17/18 how much higher than your recommended values would you advice going if I like the tone/brightness?
4.I am changing MB C8,15,23,28,29 to sozos 500V(stock values) and C6-7 and C27to Vishay1813 630V 0.022 any thoughts? is there any of these positions that are more sensitive when it comes to voltage ratings? Other caps to upgrade on MB?
5. Looking at the clean/crunch/clean boards, any caps you would advise changing to MKT1813 or Sozos? Have already put the micas across vol.pot crunch/OD (atomium mods).
6.Regaring the improved filtering MB C1-4. Ive already did a full recap. Do you still think these caps should be changes to 4700u 16V? I have som hum issues? I have moded the heaters supply so that all preamp heaters comes of BR1 not just v1-2 and the bridge elevated of the board and 8A. Here is a link to the mod: https://valvetubeguitaramps.com/marshall-jcm2000-dsl-hum-solution/

Your newest post of the schematic was better resolution that your first! Really appreciate your work. I was about to give up on this amp before I found your thread . Now the amps working and the bias is stable just some final fixes: FX Loop, new reverb tank and some upgrades! This amp is really brutal! Running it with a weber 100w greenback H clone (Legacy 12) in a iso box and a weber mass 200 to take it down a bit. Now I am loving this amp. Have a 1966 super reverb that gathering dust right now. Hats of for all the work you did and all your posts!
1) Relocating the inject and removing C24 does not affect channel switching in any way. It corrects the maldesign of the circuit by cascading each stage positive - negative - positive - negative for each channel, whereas before they left it a mess by forcing 5-stages upon the clean, and for what purpose who knows. Four stages is ample for cleans, as additional stages do nothing but adduce rumble to the lows and muddy up what would otherwise be clear and clean.
2) Yes. "Remove" means simply "get rid of it".
3) Follow my values as close as possible. You can build a 680p with an 120p, etc. to get close to 796p. 1500p with an 100p makes 1.6n, etc. Going higher in value will have the effect of layering blankets over your speakers. Conversely, you could get away with 740p and 1n5 depending on whether you play at low volume only, etc. But if you crank it (like me, although I don't use an attenuator) then no lower than what I have published. That amp gets plenty bright, even if you did layer some extra blankets over it, but I have auditioned these bleeds for months and they are the best I can offer.
4) I believe I recommeded Nichicon QXK, and still do, however you should be okay with those manufacturers. Every cap which I recommend replacing is annotated on the drawing. 500V might work, but should you blow a fuse, or a tube fails, or what have you, they might not tolerate the spike very well, all depends. It is best to meet or exceed the ratings.
5) I know Matt bleeds his channels that way; that is his tone. I have found a solution which suits my tastes better, and a solution which retains the integrity of my tone. You are welcome to give each method a try to see what suits you best. Capacitor composition has zero impact on bleeding freqq. to ground. What matters is what lies in the signal path. Vishays are good, MCaps, WIMA MPS--2, etc. will all adduce to improved signal integrity over the stock film caps. Multi-Layer Ceramic argueably better than disk, etc.
6) Yes, especially if you have all of your preamp filaments wired together. You might consider beefing up your bridge recto to say a BR108 or higher, and if you can fit them, perhaps 5600u 10V/16V. Take measurements to find good suitable replacements. Anything 105 degrees or higher is your pick.

I have auditioned every modification numerous times over to ensure a good reception with the public. Everything works--and like a dream--but unlike a dream my amp is become a reality. The days of Marshall proper are gone, and were the Guv'nor still around I would send him my amp for an answer on his approbation. Whether or not the Japanese caps would fancy him is another story. At any rate, I have been enjoying my amp since Saturday. 44 base tones--I've been busy alright, lol. My mind is still dealing with the jet-lag of realized accomplishment: I'm astonished with disbelief, yet I did it and its done.

If I had another TSL in my possession I would mirror it to clone this one here at my side. I'd keep the Accutronics tank, it has a beautiful drippy wet tone, and to have two in stereo would be absolute audio bliss...

Glad I could help :)
 

Vesperado

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Having auditioned the amp with the new 10 Henry choke for a few days now, one value has been changed for Peaker III: 2n7 > 2n5. The new value removes the dab of high-lows which were peaking over the 470k resistor. With those freqq. now attenuated the extension of the remaining lows are no longer drowned out. This means that the Deep is useable with both OD coupler values, Basses dimed. I had OPA2134A fitted for Deep duty, but find that the TL072ACP blends much better making it impossible to perceive that an opamp boosts resonance.

So here is the new schema:

Peakers I: 470p Amber; 985p Red
Peakers II: 1720p / OFF / 2150p
Peakers III: 2150p / OFF / 2500p
NB: Relocating Clean inject keeps Peaker III from affecting Green channel. Also, it removes over-saturation of low freqq.

Tone wise, all combinations between Deeps, Tone-Shifts, OD couplers, and Peakers II/III are useable. Not only so, but I can use stomps to push the amp over every setting, if desired. Then again, there is no need when employing Pp.II+III as there is ample boost to dispense with stomps.

It is apparent that I miscalculated the number of base tones my amp can boast, it's actually in the ballpark of 76.

I will see if I can upload an audio clip soon showcasing every preset...
 


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