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The Official Marshall DSL40c Information Thread

Discussion in 'Marshall Amps' started by Micky, Feb 17, 2013.

  1. Forp

    Forp New Member

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    No, actually i like the distortion on the amp and having the distortion comming froma pedal does the same to the reverb tail. I just posted toget some feedback from other user . I need to know if its normal before getting it back to the store. Here is a video i made, listen carefully its not a loud clipping , its at the very end of each reverb. My setting is crunch gain 10 volume 4 treble 0 mid 7 bass 2 presence 10 reso 1.5 reverb 10. If i crank the volume it seams to be less noticeble
     
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  2. Forp

    Forp New Member

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    The best for me would be videos answers, i want to ear your dsl40c. Please Use the setting i used for accurancy . I used a fender telecaster on bridge vol 10 tone 7 if you wanted to know.
     
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  3. SlapHand

    SlapHand Well-Known Member Gold Supporting Member

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    My advice would be get an external reverb source…

    I have 2 DSL’s… the 40c and the 40cr and love them both… but the reverb is not what made this amp a good amp!
     
  4. solarburnDSL50

    solarburnDSL50 Well-Known Member Platinum Supporting Member

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    Fuck reverb. You wanna make it wet? Play better.:D:naughty:
     
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  5. Mitchell Pearrow

    Mitchell Pearrow Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    Welcome to the forum
    I only have my reverb on 5 try that and see if it’s still doing it.
    Whenever I have turned the reverb up higher it mushes the tone to a point that I don’t like.
    I believe your amp is fine, but if reverb is a must have for what you play, I would get a pedal.. (Marshall’s are not known for their reverb)
    Cheers
    Mitch
     
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  6. RustInPeace117

    RustInPeace117 New Member

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    Hey all,

    Long time listener, first time caller.

    I have a Hammond 1650H rated at 40W with a 6.6k primary, wondering if I can drop this in as a replacement for the 40C? I tried looking up specs for other replacements but came up short on info. I also have a Hammond 5H I'm going to install regardless. Also while I'm in there, I was thinking of doing the Headfirst amplification mods to the 40C. He has them listed out for the 100H, but the overall circuit and PCB on the 40C are identical to the 100H as far as I can tell? Can anyone verify that? I've already changed C19 to 100pF and installed a Eminence Swamp Thang speaker, but still looking to tighten things up with the bass response. These mods are designed to reduce the bass, cut higher frequencies/harmonics at a later gain stage, and lower the overall amount of gain. Generally pushes the amp towards more of a modded JCM800 territory.

    Headfirst mods and how-to can be found on their website, which I cant post yet due to rules. Also, his Youtube page is super informative.

    Just looking for clarification on the OT mostly.

    Thanks!
     
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  7. Mitchell Pearrow

    Mitchell Pearrow Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    Welcome to the forum
    I have no answers for you.
    Be patient others will be along with their wisdom.
    Cheers
    Mitch
     
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  8. Micky

    Micky Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    I think I measured the OT at 4.0K after I took mine out but I could be wrong. To be sure, disconnect it, feed it with a signal and measure the output and calculate the resistance. I forget what the formula is, but just Google it and you can find it. I replaced mine with a ClassicTone, but apparently they went belly-up. Glad I got all I needed from them before that happened.

    The 5H choke should tighten up the bass a lot, the Swamp Thang is an excellent choice to do that as well BTW. I have a 4X12 cab filled with them, as well as another cab full of Texas Heat's. They really are efficient, effectively doubling the output over the original speaker (Seventy 80).

    There are a few slight differences between the 40W & 100W versions so be very careful. I would add the choke and then check to see how much of a difference it makes first. You already have most of the components you need to fix flubby bass...
     
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  9. Micky

    Micky Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    I just looked at the DSL100 mods on the Headfirst page, and I have to say, I am not impressed. The very first photo had a resistor soldered onto the top of the board, and one leg soldered onto the board was all goobered up and looked cold. I said OK, it is only one photo, so I opened up the next photo. Again, unimpressed. To me work like that is unacceptable. I can understand when shooting in the dark and trying mods willy-nilly you might end up with something like that, but at least clean up the solder joints before you publish photos on the Internet.

    I say this with all due respect.

    What anyone chooses to do with their equipment is up to them. I just hope everyone stays safe and can make things reliable.
     
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  10. RustInPeace117

    RustInPeace117 New Member

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    Yeah I noticed the quality of his soldering work was not that great overall. However, I found the approach to the mods with the aim at reducing the low end and overall gain to be desirable.

    I think that, with a 6.6k compared to a 4.0k (If your memory is correct), it would just be a slight power output drop as the R increases in that formula. Actually, with a choke, it might even stay the same. Using a choke over a resistor usually adds 5-6 volts, and that added voltage to the plates combined with slightly higher resistance might not see a difference really.

    I'm going to start with the choke and work from there.

    Thanks!
     

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