The importance of cables

tonycaster

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Since I upgraded my pedalboard and the whole signal with the famous japanese cable company, the improvement in the overall tone and disappearing of all hisses, hums and various noises convinced me about how crucial the cables are in the search for the holy grail tone. But the more shocking test was to connect a bass guitar directly into a daw with different cables brands (same length); the differences were impressive, and the winner was, of course, the japanese...
 

Len

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Since I upgraded my pedalboard and the whole signal with the famous japanese cable company, the improvement in the overall tone and disappearing of all hisses, hums and various noises convinced me about how crucial the cables are in the search for the holy grail tone. But the more shocking test was to connect a bass guitar directly into a daw with different cables brands (same length); the differences were impressive, and the winner was, of course, the japanese...
For those of us who don’t visit the forum often, what cables did you used to use, do you use buffers, and what’s the Japanese company?
 

tonycaster

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Now I use Mogami 2524 cables with Neutrik connectors, and 2319 patch cables with eminence pancake connectors. I used to use Spectraflex and Monster Cables as hi end cables, as well as other unbranded cables: believe me @Len , the difference is more than audible, it's huge, both live and in the studio. I use a Tc Polytene 3 with buffer after an RMC wah and a Fulltone Octafuzz, I don't notice any difference between going straight to the amp or through pedals with those Mogami. I used to place the tuner before all pedals, but I tried it after and it sounds better
 

Vesperado

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Now I use Mogami 2524 cables with Neutrik connectors, and 2319 patch cables with eminence pancake connectors. I used to use Spectraflex and Monster Cables as hi end cables, as well as other unbranded cables: believe me @Len , the difference is more than audible, it's huge, both live and in the studio. I use a Tc Polytene 3 with buffer after an RMC wah and a Fulltone Octafuzz, I don't notice any difference between going straight to the amp or through pedals with those Mogami. I used to place the tuner before all pedals, but I tried it after and it sounds better
To an extent cables are important, but people would be surprised how little wiring "quality" is overlooked in manufactured pedals and amps. A patch cable is not going to kill your tone, but if you're without a buffer running a long enough cable, it will effect it somewhat. If you're hard pressed on maintaining optimal signal throughput for your axe, get two or three specs of litz wire, bus them together, and pop open your pedals and amp and start replacing every wire where signal is carried forward. Otherwise expensive patch cables overall are no real gain and money in the wind imo.
 

tonycaster

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@TXOldRedRocker that's a good practice when you have a lot of true bypass pedals after the first buffer, let's say more than 5. I also found the placement of the buffer after a wah and/or a fuzz (I do so) is better than putting the buffer (or a buffered pedal) very first in the chain
 

TXOldRedRocker

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@TXOldRedRocker that's a good practice when you have a lot of true bypass pedals after the first buffer, let's say more than 5. I also found the placement of the buffer after a wah and/or a fuzz (I do so) is better than putting the buffer (or a buffered pedal) very first in the chain

Actually, I should clarify. My PolyTune is first on my pedalboard. If I don't have a wah in play, I plug into the PolyTune. If I use a wah, it goes on the floor next to the board, and the guitar will plug into the wah, and the wah into the PolyTune.

I'm not currently gigging, no time for band practice and gigs these days. Maybe in about a year. So I don't have to worry about carrying stuff. I just grab the wah sitting in the corner when I want to use it.
 

junk notes

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Yes, an excellent choice for cable.
IMHO the hardware is just as important, that the manufacturer uses for their cable production.
The new Pure Tone Muti-Contact s look very interesting and would like to give them a try on the next something..
Why I prefer Switchcraft and Nuetrik because of their sold connection and fit. That is why I cannot use just any old guitar or speaker cable.
I do not know where I had seen the diagram, but shows how important seating the plug into the jack for a solid connection.
I have to point out that although you cannot use a Cliff jack anywhere they are made to fit Swithcraft and Nuetrik molds and are one of my favorite jacks to use.

note: I like the new pancake designs coming out as of late.

Using the right cable and length does make a difference in the outcome of your guitar signal, usually targeting the highs. A corded capacitor. :)
 

tallcoolone

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My issue is always with the main instrument cable that goes from pedalboard to instrument. Always stepping on it, sometimes on concrete esp w/summer outdoor gigs just tears em up. Crackle city after just a few mos
 

Maxbrothman

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This is one good reason why modeling gear excels. Doesn't have any power adapters or connections to build up noise except what powers the unit and the guitar plugged into it.
 

tallcoolone

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Going through Crackle City sucks, where is the off ramp!:D

I wonder if the expensive 'oxygen-free' cables handle that issue?
Yeah it sucks—I am def not cheap but if a 20’ cable is only going to last me a couple months I don’t want to drop $100 on it
 

PelliX

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Yeah it sucks—I am def not cheap but if a 20’ cable is only going to last me a couple months I don’t want to drop $100 on it

I understand this might 'explode', but have you considered wireless? Even if just for those gigs that might end the life of your primary lead? I'm all wired because I prefer old fashioned, straight forward approaches where possible, plus no dicking around with batteries, etc. I imagine a 9V battery or whatnot for a gig wouldn't hurt as much as a new lead every month or two?
 

tallcoolone

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I understand this might 'explode', but have you considered wireless? Even if just for those gigs that might end the life of your primary lead? I'm all wired because I prefer old fashioned, straight forward approaches where possible, plus no dicking around with batteries, etc. I imagine a 9V battery or whatnot for a gig wouldn't hurt as much as a new lead every month or two?
You are right of course but the older I get the simpler I want things to be. Already dealing with tubes, pedals, patch cables, strings…I’m hesitant to add another failure point when the alternative is just to pack an extra cable.
 

Leonard Neemoil

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I understand this might 'explode', but have you considered wireless? Even if just for those gigs that might end the life of your primary lead? I'm all wired because I prefer old fashioned, straight forward approaches where possible, plus no dicking around with batteries, etc. I imagine a 9V battery or whatnot for a gig wouldn't hurt as much as a new lead every month or two?

You are right of course but the older I get the simpler I want things to be. Already dealing with tubes, pedals, patch cables, strings…I’m hesitant to add another failure point when the alternative is just to pack an extra cable.

Not to mention that most wireless units today have built in rechargeable batteries. I can't stand rechargeable crap because unless you use it all the time it's usually dead when you want it. That, or it won't hold a charge after you've used it enough. I'd rather just be able to throw a new battery in if needed.
 

TheLoudness!!

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I once used the cheapest crap I could get back in the day. Most likely because I did not know any better. From a tone perspective, I never could tell that much of a difference if any.

My Fender cables never did hold very up very long at all. I think that most people should buy a cable based on it's durability instead of tone. Unless they can hear the difference or if cheap cables are adding unwanted noise in the signal chain.

The one cable that I could tell a difference with is the speaker cable. The one that goes from amp to cab. The Eurotubes branded one is a very nice speaker cable at a reasonable price. Very heavy gauge. 10 gauge if I remember correctly.

I've been using mostly Rattlesnake cables for the last two years with zero issues.

I also have had the same Pig Hog branded cables since probably 2014. Zero issues with them as well. They are really good and the price point is very fair.
 

jeffb

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Cables make a difference for sure.

And while clarity is often a good thing for some rigs, it can be detrimental to others depending on your choices. If you are going for more vintage tones, especially using single coil guitars and brighter amps, a higher capacitance cable is is usually a better choice than a super low capacitance cable like a Mogami. Tons of gain and darker tones, the low capacitance is usually an improvement.

I didn't care for Mogami Gold or George Ls- clarity noticably improved yes, but at the expense of lows and harsher highs. I prefer Monster Rock (overpriced , but sonically great) PRS (way under the radar) and the newer Ernie Ball cables (surprisingly). The place where I prefer the best clarity/lowest cap is in SPEAKER cables. I prefer a little more capacitance in my guitar cables.
 

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