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Discussion in 'Marshall Amps' started by dslman, May 2, 2016.
oh my. He did a good job at making those Jubes sound like ass.
I made a non-alcohol Mint Julep today... Very tasty!
Is an old video ...the first video on tube when 2555X arrived on the scenes.
Here there's a video played in october 2015 by us (me and my friend):
Marshalled, we get it, no need to multiple post my friend, cheers.
Sure but i push button reply 1 time !!!
I substitute the multiple answer whit a DOT !
My experience is that you have to check the bias on the 2555x. They shipped mine completely out of wack. One side way too cold and the other way too hot. I have seen numerous posts from other people with similar findings. Marshalled's vid is way better than the first one.
Some demos I have watched on YouTube sounded fantastic.
I have a 1988 black jubilee 50 watt. It sounds to die for.
I was at Sam Ash in Hollywood a few weeks ago and tried out a 100 watt reissue and it sounded terrible.
I'm thinking the bias was cocked up as CharvelFan said above.
I wouldn't even consider selling my '87 SJ.
The 50w version have more Gain than 100w ...at minute 4:48 of my video you can listen a black tolex 2553.
If the prices were the same I'd go reissue every time. Lower maintenance, possible improvements, possible warranty.
I have both, a 2555x and an older 2555SL (Slash), not much difference tonally.
If I could afford one, I'd get a 'Lerxst Omega' head which is a 50W Silver Jubilee clone of Alex Lifeson's favorite Marshall Silver Jub amp.
The reissue seems a little more bright ,stringent than the vintage. Similar to the difference on a 2203 and 2203x.
This is exactly why I got the reissue. The used prices were insane for the condition I was finding. I got a good deal on my halfstack.
Interesting. I have heard other people say the same thing. Maybe the modern components cause them to be slightly brighter. I wouldn't describe mine as being bright. I suspect my speakers have some breaking in to do.
All components being equal, the only remaining difference is the solder. My experience is, that lead-free solder imparts a certain "sizzle" to the top-end compared to tin/lead solder. I asked Trace at Voodoo what he thought? His experience was the same as mine. No amount of eq adjustments will quell the differences between the two. I completely rebuilt three hand-wired amplifiers using components of identical size and composition, but used tin/lead solder in place of lead-free RoHS solder. In every case, the tin/lead rebuilds were warmer overall, with none of the bristly sounding top-end. Every test was done using the same 2x12 and 4x12 cabinets. It was definitely more noticeable when using HG vs clean tones.
Both sound good, but there is a very slight difference.