Origin 212A Cab Build: Done

[fitz]

EDIT: SCROLL DOWN FOR BUILD PICS:

EDIT#2: TOLEX DONE & THEN SOME...

Hi all, I'm building a custom 2x12 for my Origin20H.
It will be a half slant like the OR212A, but I'm making it the same width as the head and as short as possible to fit the two 12"ers stacked vertically.
Question is, with the available 20.5" width, is there any benefit to stagger the top & bottom from one side to the other, or stack them down the center?
With the bend line, I cant overlap to save height, just wondering if there's an acoustical reason to offset from center.

 

[paul-e-mann]

Hi all, I'm building a custom 2x12 for my Origin20H.
It will be a half slant like the OR212A, but I'm making it the same width as the head and as short as possible to fit the two 12"ers stacked vertically.
Question is, with the available 20.5" width, is there any benefit to stagger the top & bottom from one side to the other, or stack them down the center?
With the bend line, I cant overlap to save height, just wondering if there's an acoustical reason to offset from center.

Staggering we're talking about a few inches difference, I dont see any acoustical benefit, more importantly staggering will save space as opposed to side by side speakers, if trying to make a smaller cab then stagger the speakers would make sense. But I'm just speaking logically I'm no authority on this...

 

[neikeel]

I believe that offset (ie angled vs pure side by side or pure vertical) is less likely to get beaming or phase problems.
Happy to be put straight if that is not the case.

 

[Geeze]

If stacking you could also increase the angle of the baffle and avoid the folded baffle altogether - I generally put in a 1.5° to 2° angle on cabs.

Russ

 

[fitz]

If stacking you could also increase the angle of the baffle and avoid the folded baffle altogether - I generally put in a 1.5° to 2° angle on cabs.

Russ

Thanks,
I'm going for the half slant look of the origin cab, but with a thin frame like the code cab.


Trying for a closer match to the style of the head.
I got the matching piping and grill cloth, and the hardware is on the way.
About to fire up the table saw.

 

[Geeze]

Cool. Please post your build progress. There is always a new idea I can steal - er, learn from!

Russ

 

[fitz]

Cool. Please post your build progress. There is always a new idea I can steal - er, learn from!

Russ

Post 'em here, or start a new thread?
Teasers:

 

[fitz]

I also didn't want another pair of Sevenry-80s that come with the ORI212A.
Already have a pair in the MX112s under the DSL20H.
So I'm filling the holes with these.

 

[mickeydg5]

Tis good to stagger, offset.
It rids the box of some standing waves.
Still the rectangular and irregular shape of the box does the same.

 

[fitz]

Parts fit-up of cab panels:

 

[fitz]

Added the 1/4 round:




Have to let the glue dry before I trim the excess and round the corners.
All I got for today.
Tomorrow lots of sanding and Amazon is bringing the handles so I can get those located and cut out.
Time for food.

 

[fitz]

Tis good to stagger, offset.
It rids the box of some standing waves.
Still the rectangular and irregular shape of the box does the same.

Thanks, I went with the side to side offset.
The baffle plate frame is going to slide in from the front and be set to the back of the trim depth.
Still need to final trim to size and allow for screen and piping.
I'm trying to blend the style of the Origin & Code cabs.
I think it's going to match the head style much better than the Marshall ORI212A.

 

[fitz]

glue dried enough to trim & sand.
Put the baffles in for a test fit.

 

[fitz]

Got the baffle plate frame done, handles in, and here's a pic with the head for scale.

I'll be waiting a week or so for the tolex and back panel jack.

 

[fitz]

Still waiting on the tolex, just black stain for now.
Test fit on the grill cloth & piping on the baffle & preview with O20H head.

 

[Geeze]

Nice work @fitz228!

Looking forward to the finished product and the all important test blast... er, drive!

Russ

 

[fitz]

Nice work @fitz228!

Looking forward to the finished product and the all important test blast... er, drive!

Russ

Thanks Russ,
One of my other hobbies is antique clock restoration, so plywood boxes are fairly easy.

Any thoughts on a back panel brace?
I've seen 2x12s with and without.
Found one in the Code 212 when I was doing the piping bling on that one.

Keith

 

[Drinkingdeath01]

Looks great Fitz, nice work !!!

 

[Geeze]

Any thoughts on a back panel brace?
I've seen 2x12s with and without.
Found one in the Code 212 when I was doing the piping bling on that one.

Personally I'm not a brace fan but I run .750" wood. I'll try it without first - if it isn't broke don't fix it.

Russ

 

[RCM 800]

looks great man.