Marshall DSL20HR and 1936V cabinet - modern metal sound?

markok1847

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You will need a single speaker cable for the DSL to connect to the 1936.
Yes, I searched for some additional info and you are right - from the head (8ohm) to the cabinet (mono 8 ohm) :) What I find odd though is that if for example I have ordered the DSL1HR instead which only has one 16 ohm out, I couldnt have contacted it to the 1936V cabinet with both speakers working at once. Am I correct?
 

BlueX

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First I thought the pedalboard thing is easy but now understand that it can get very complicated.

It is easy, but can get as complicated as you want. As someone already suggested, start with the basics (guitar, amp, cab) and build from there.

from the head (8ohm) to the cabinet (mono 8 ohm)

Maybe you already know, or remember, but don't mix instrument cables (coaxial) with speaker cables. They look the same, therefore I mark the speaker cables with coloured PVC tape. The DSL should come with a speaker cable.
 

fitz288

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What I find odd though is that if for example I have ordered the DSL1HR instead which only has one 16 ohm out, I couldnt have contacted it to the 1936V cabinet with both speakers working at once. Am I correct?
Yes, the speaker jack on the DSL1HR is only 16ohm.
Options are a 1x16 ohm speaker, a 2x12 cab with two 8ohm speakers in series, or a 4x12 with 16s s/p wired to 16.
Or (a little more complicated) there's an 8ohm tap wire inside that can be rewired to the jack, or a 8 ohm jack can be added.
 

markok1847

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Or (a little more complicated) there's an 8ohm tap wire inside that can be rewired to the jack, or a 8 ohm jack can be added.

Ah, interesting. Do you mean that the additional resistor (spelling?) is actually inside the head between the preamp and poweramp? Or can it be added after the head output jack also? I assume these are all self-made and cannot be purchased.
 

fitz288

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Ah, interesting. Do you mean that the additional resistor (spelling?) is actually inside the head between the preamp and poweramp? Or can it be added after the head output jack also? I assume these are all self-made and cannot be purchased.
There's an unused 8ohm power tap wire coming out of the output transformer.
Here's a thread with some details.
Dsl1 (2018 Vietnam Version) Mod's | MarshallForum.com
 

SkyMonkey

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Hi @markok1847. As promised.

The LS-2 has one Input, one Output, and two loops (A & B).

In my setup the Donner Looper and TC Sentry noise gate are first.
The signal then goes to the LS-2.
Loop A contains the OD-20 (OD's and distortions) and my Valvestate VS65R preamp, with the Amp Send connected to the Loop A Return. (substitute your TS, Distortion pedal and DSL20 preamp here)
Loop B contains just an MT-2 (Metal Zone) used as a preamp. (substitute your REVV pedals here)
The LS-2 Output connects to the TC Mimiq, and the chain is then stereo through the Zoom MS-70CDR and the Boss RC-3.
The RC-3 outputs connect to the FX Returns of a VS65R (via a LBAB) and a DSL40CR.
The LBAB (top right) is the MV for the non-MV VS65R.

So, with the LS-2 set to A<>B mode, I can toggle between the MT-2 as a preamp and my amp's preamp + OD's.

20210423_093812-1500.jpg
 
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Benighted

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Using an LS-2 to switch between two ODs is a great idea. Another option is to use a MIDI switcher like the one below; its only $30 more than the LS-2. It mainly depends how flexible configuration you would like to have and the available real estate on your pedalboard. Another plus is the MIDI switcher can also control the channel selection on you amp.

https://decibel11.com/product/switch-dr-midi-controller-loop-switcher/
 

SkyMonkey

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Using an LS-2 to switch between two ODs is a great idea. Another option is to use a MIDI switcher like the one below; its only $30 more than the LS-2. It mainly depends how flexible configuration you would like to have and the available real estate on your pedalboard. Another plus is the MIDI switcher can also control the channel selection on you amp.

https://decibel11.com/product/switch-dr-midi-controller-loop-switcher/
Only the DSL40CR & DSL100HR have MIDI switching.
The DSL2020HR/CR are MIDI'less. :(
 

ITburst

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Congrats on your incoming amp. I have had my DSL20HR and MX212 slant cab for a couple of months now and I absolutely love it. Enjoy!
 

fitz288

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CVS

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I will definitely look into the SD-1 thing and will let you know about the Revv pedals. With YouTube comparisons at least with the Revvs people say that they sound very different but on the videos they sound almost exactly the same, so that will be interesting.

Should I also get a delay pedal? Im not very fond of the effect, but everyone seems to be using it. Im also a bit concerned about my old Ibanez GRX70 humbuckers (the budget GIO series from 2000-2003). Should I be looking for active pickups instead or replacing these passive ones? I dont exactly understand how the guitar prices have changed these past decades - back in 2002 my guitar cost 300 euros, I was looking at a local aftermarket today and it seems one guy is selling the same type/series humbuckers in new condition for 60 euros a pair. So an upgrade for me would be pickups which cost more than 100 euros? I dont want to change them out and get exactly the same quality :)

I might be a little late with my reaction , but here's my setup with the DSL20H:
in front of the amp i use a Boss SD-1 or an MXR Wyllde Overdrive and in the loop i use a Boss DD-3 (800ms d-time 50 proc, effect level 25 proc and feedb 25 proc) which you easily can turn on or of with the footswitch ! I can have a 4 channel amp in that way (clean , crunch with the overdrive on with the classic channel , and 2 kind of metalsounds on the other channel ( one with and one without OD)
My main guitars are Les paul (gibson and Epiphone) and a fender strat
Give it a try ..i'd like to hear your opinion
 

markok1847

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Amp and cabinet finally arrived yay. You guys are right - getting the right tone takes a while :) I have a small problem though - is this amp supposed to produce a small hiss at all times? I even have the hiss when nothing is not plugged in and when Im at full or half power. Noisegate doesnt help either because the hiss is at all times. I have never had an actual tube amp before. Is this normal?

The other small problem is that Thomann didnt double box the 1936V cabinet and all the front corner protections of the cabinet are scratched to hell because the box was literally scratched to pieces and the cabinet corners were poking out during transit. For some odd reason the Marshall plastic flaps (spelling?) on top of the cabinet also have some bad marks on them. I know that the corners are replacable but what about those plastic things on the top?

Thank you again for all the replies - I try to response all to you as time passes :)
 

SkyMonkey

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A certain amount of hiss is inherent in most tube amps in my experience.
That amount varies between models and individual examples too.

The hiss must be coming from the power amp stage if a noise gate in the loop has no effect.
Because the 20HR has no Global Master Volume (unlike the 40CR & 100HR) the power amp is effectively 'wide open' all the time.
All the volume control comes from the channel Gain and Vol knobs.
So the hiss should be at a constant level, with only the EQ, Res & Pres having an effect.

I am no expert, but if the volume of the hiss is too much you could try a new set of EL34 power tubes.
It's not a cheap experiment though, and could void your warranty.
So if the amp is new you may be best off sending it back to the shop for them to look at.
 

markok1847

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A certain amount of hiss is inherent in most tube amps in my experience.
That amount varies between models and individual examples too.

The hiss must be coming from the power amp stage if a noise gate in the loop has no effect.
Because the 20HR has no Global Master Volume (unlike the 40CR & 100HR) the power amp is effectively 'wide open' all the time.
All the volume control comes from the channel Gain and Vol knobs.
So the hiss should be at a constant level, with only the EQ, Res & Pres having an effect.

I am no expert, but if the volume of the hiss is too much you could try a new set of EL34 power tubes.
It's not a cheap experiment though, and could void your warranty.
So if the amp is new you may be best off sending it back to the shop for them to look at.
I think the hiss is definitely too loud, when dials are at zero it basically sounds indeed like everything is at max volume. Actual noise gate in the FX loop didnt help either, it mutes the additional guitar noise but not the actual hiss. I dont have any new tubes at hand right now, I see that everyone recommends changing these out but it seems no one actually had any use of that with this model. Some people claim that their amp is completely quiet, so I assume good copies are out there?
 

fitz288

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Here is a video of the hissing:

I see that there are long threads about the hiss. Am I also the unlucky one?

Mine has a slight hum, but it's more like a transformer hum than a hiss.
A little louder on 20w than 10w.
And I get no thump when I switch on and off standby.
Before you pack it up and send it back, check to see if you have the same result at different locations and power outlets.
Maybe your amp is picking up some interference or is on a noisy power circuit.
 

markok1847

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So I went ahead and also purchased the DSL1HR (received it today) and with the same cabinet and power outlet it doesnt have the hiss. It gets to the same level hiss wise only if everything is on max.
 


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