Les Paul String Gauge

Rooster-p

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I have the same issue after severing the nerves in my pointer and middle finger on my fretting hand. Then there's tendon, joint damage and arthritis in that hand as well. Had my hand closed in a car door when I was a kid and also broke my wrist and multiple fingers on different occasions through the years afterwards. That's been on both hands. my picking hand was mauled by a dog when I was a little kid that also did nerve and tendon damage. So that lead to me also developing arthritis in both hands and wrists by my early-mid 20's. I was extremely accident prone. lol
I feel ya, I have a genetic disease called dupuytrens contracture in both hands and have been playing with that for about 1 1/2 years out of the 55 years I have been playing. I play with 9's right now but I'm fixing to have surgery and I'm probably going to have to try 8's when I heal up.
 

Ken Ops

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Exactly. Rick Beato and friends did a test of lighter gauge strings and there was no noticeable tone loss.

Hm, was it just me that did hear a difference then? Also in terms of sustain, most definitely.

I dunno, different ears I guess, different brains. Yeah, effed if I know..
 

purpleplexi

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Tried Billy Gs own brand 8s and they were OK. Then I tried the 7s that he reckons he uses but it was like playing with someone elses fingers - couldn't feel a thing. Anyway gone back to 9s. Always pyramid nickel classics. I have a faber tailpiece that's height adjustable which keeps the angle low - like it was topwrapped.
 

El Gringo

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Because of the damage in both of my hands, Ive tried them several times over the years. They usually stay on for about 3-5 days. I overpower them, no matter how softly I try to play. If I was some scale shredder, or maybe a light picking old school blues player, maybe they would be OK. Really fun to play leads and bend on, but primarily I'm a heavy handed rhythm player and I can't play any other way. 9s are about as low as I can go, and my current #1 is buttery enough I can get away with (certain brand) 10s in E flat tuning. On my other two Les Pauls and 335 I have to stick with 9s as they are stiffer to bend on.

One thing I love about 8s is because low frequencies are cut, the midrange and clarity improves- so they sound really good with hotter pickups, especially low heavy ones like the Duncan SH-14,SH5, or Dimarzio SuperD/Tone zone. They also will help clear up a woofy neck pickup on a Les Paul, like a Duncan 59. But they can get pretty thin if you've got a lower output bridge pickup without much to beef them up (Duncan 59 or Demon, Dimarzio ACs, etc)
Very good observations !
 

Vinsanitizer

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I bought a pack of these and I’m gonna put them on one of my Les Pauls tomorrow, I’ve never played a lighter string than 9s.


Any of you guys running these?
Yes! I used to use 10's, then went down to 9's, and I've been using 8's for almost a year now. I have no problem with them, and feel like I've been missing out on the ease of playability and the tighter, clearer, low-end compared to 10's. I also use a heavy pick, if that's of any use - Dunlop Tortex 1.14mm (purple), or the white Tortex "Wedge", also 1.14mm (the purple ones are standard shape, the Wedge is slightly pointier without being like a Jazz pick). The advantage of the Wedge over the standard Tortex, is a bit more accuracy, and they're white, which means they're easier to find.

By the way, I currently use Ernie Ball's on all of my guitars, except an Ibanez that I have D'Addario 9's for.

I would not use 8's for gigging, they'd be breaking all over the place.
 
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SamStuff

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...... and there is no difference in tone with any of these variants as far as what you hear out of the drivers? I want to make this move as well but not sure where to start: EB standard slinky or extra -
 

scozz

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...... and there is no difference in tone with any of these variants as far as what you hear out of the drivers? I want to make this move as well but not sure where to start: EB standard slinky or extra -
As far as a difference in tone I didn’t notice any, and I was definitely listening for it. Although I only was able to play for about a half hour or so, so I haven’t really dug in to these strings yet.

You want to make a move to lighter strings but you don’t know where to start? I don’t understand what you mean with that statement. Just buy a set of strings in the gauge you want and try them.

It’s not rocket science.
 

scozz

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Tried Billy Gs own brand 8s and they were OK. Then I tried the 7s that he reckons he uses but it was like playing with someone elses fingers - couldn't feel a thing. Anyway gone back to 9s. Always pyramid nickel classics. I have a Faber tailpiece that’s height adjustable which keeps the angle low - like it was topwrapped.
Aren’t all tailpiece’s height adjustable, all the ones I’ve ever had are?

I’m old fashioned, I prefer my tailpiece decked for better sustain, even though some say decking the tailpiece does not increase sustain.

Another reason for topwrapping is to decrease the downward pressure on the bridge. I’ve seen both abr and nashville tuneomatic bridges collapsing, because of the pressure of a low tailpiece and traditional stringing.

It’s a very subtle collapse, that might not even be noticed unless the bridge is removed.
 

jeffb

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I’m old fashioned, I prefer my tailpiece decked for better sustain, even though some say decking the tailpiece does not increase sustain.
Decking the tailpiece provides better coupling to the body not because of the tailpiece, but because of the tailpiece SCREWS. When they are screwed farther into the body, they are transmitting more vibration form deeper into the body. This is why vintage length (longer) tp screws are a much better investment than locking bridges and replacement bridge posts (I've been down the aftermarket parts replacement rabbithole - several guitars and several hundreds of dollars worth).

They may not always increase sustain (it can), but you will more likely notice a difference in feel and resonance/volume.
 

El Gringo

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Decking the tailpiece provides better coupling to the body not because of the tailpiece, but because of the tailpiece SCREWS. When they are screwed farther into the body, they are transmitting more vibration form deeper into the body. This is why vintage length (longer) tp screws are a much better investment than locking bridges and replacement bridge posts (I've been down the aftermarket parts replacement rabbithole - several guitars and several hundreds of dollars worth).

They may not always increase sustain (it can), but you will more likely notice a difference in feel and resonance/volume.
Big time resonance / volume for sure !
 

purpleplexi

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Aren’t all tailpiece’s height adjustable, all the ones I’ve ever had are?

I’m old fashioned, I prefer my tailpiece decked for better sustain, even though some say decking the tailpiece does not increase sustain.

Another reason for topwrapping is to decrease the downward pressure on the bridge. I’ve seen both abr and nashville tuneomatic bridges collapsing, because of the pressure of a low tailpiece and traditional stringing.

It’s a very subtle collapse, that might not even be noticed unless the bridge is removed.
Yes but with the faber you can lock it tight at any height which you can't do with the stock item.
 

Vinsanitizer

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...... and there is no difference in tone with any of these variants as far as what you hear out of the drivers? I want to make this move as well but not sure where to start: EB standard slinky or extra -
Best advice? Try different sets and see what works best for you. On some guitars, like my Strat, 8's are a bit too slappy on the frets, and no action adjustment is necessary. On my Les Pauls, they sound great, I don't hear them as slappy or thin, just easy to bend and a tighter bottom end.
 

turfdoc

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I bought a pack of these and I’m gonna put them on one of my Les Pauls tomorrow, I’ve never played a lighter string than 9s.


Any of you guys running these?
On a tangent note, I put a set of D'addarios pure nickel, 10 on top, on my Lowden O32 acoustic just as a lark....and I will never ever use anything else. Sounds like playing in a cathedral. So the point is, your personal guitar may surprise you when you try the unexpected....so just give it a go..
 

Biff Maloy

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NYXL 10s on my R7. I top wrap for reasons mentioned and it feels better.
 

Edgar Frog

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I run my tail piece decked and strung up regular (no top wrap). My Bridge is able to be ran pretty low and the angle isn't bad/excessive at all. I think it's a case by case basis if someone would benefit from top wrapping or not.
 

jeffb

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I run my tail piece decked and strung up regular (no top wrap). My Bridge is able to be ran pretty low and the angle isn't bad/excessive at all. I think it's a case by case basis if someone would benefit from top wrapping or not.
+1
I prefer NOT to top wrap, because it changes the feel/attack of the strings. They not only have a loosy goosy feel for bending they tend to get more rubber band-like with the string attack when you top wrap. I prefer the more responsive feel of them strung normally, though some of my past guitars I had to top wrap despite my preference.

As for those who worry of an ABR folding over, easy fix is to use two or more thumbwheels on each post. You can still get an actual bridge collapse otherwise, but I'll take years of better feel in play and won't bat an eyelash in replacing a Nashville or ABR bridge for $60 down the road.

EDIT- current #1 plays well enough for me to bump back up to 10s, and go normal wrap

Exhibit A
resize59+latepatnumber.jpg
 

tallcoolone

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GHS Burnished Nickel Rocker 10's
 

scozz

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Yeah, I’m liking the Ernie Ball 8s, I’m getting 3 more packs for my Lps. They currently have Ernie Ball hybrid 9/10, I’ve been using them for,.. probably 30 years or more!
 

Moony

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In standard E tuning I always play 9-46 on F scale and 10-46 on G scale.
I never wanted to exotic hybrid strings because in the past you couldn't get them everywhere.
A regular 9 or 10 gauge set of strings is always available.
 

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