Fender Vintera Strat 60s

Discussion in 'Guitars' started by BatmansMarshall, Jun 30, 2020.

  1. BatmansMarshall

    BatmansMarshall Well-Known Member

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    I am thinking about owning a regular Fender Stratocaster. I just don't have one and probably should given I play quite a few songs from across the various Stratocaster eras. I was going to just go with a Fender Player as I hear that if Fender were to go back and do things another way they would probably do it this modern way. So I get there are some differences like pickups and truss rod access and a different neck profile for Vintera compared to the modern Player. My question is if it is worth going the extra for a Vintera when a Player would probably be an easier Strat to manage and can do roughly the same thing. I really like 60s Stratocaster tones so I am thinking this is maybe what I should do and just get what they had back then to achieve the same results or should I go modern and enjoy the benefits of that on a cheaper Player?
     
  2. pedecamp

    pedecamp Well-Known Member

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    I say go with your first choice, dont worry about the cost you'll be happy for the long haul. :yesway:
     
  3. BatmansMarshall

    BatmansMarshall Well-Known Member

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    Is there much of a difference between the 50s and 60s version in terms of tones? I love 60s Strat tones but I was wondering how easy it would be for the 50s one to do them also?
     
  4. axe4me

    axe4me Well-Known Member

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  5. Wildeman

    Wildeman Well-Known Member

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    Vintage 7 1/4" radius, small frets and heel end trussrod access can go away imo. Which ever one has the 9 1/2" radius and headstock truss access is for me.
     
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  6. Wildeman

    Wildeman Well-Known Member

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    Not much difference, maple necks are a bit brighter than rosewood in general but nothing that can't be EQ'd.
     
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  7. South Park

    South Park Well-Known Member

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    Not All the necks Are The same find the one you like . You can find some good ones on eBay . The most important part of a strat . You can build the one you want for a lot less then new
     
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  8. Trumpet Rider

    Trumpet Rider Well-Known Member

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    (a bit off subject) The funny thing about Strats to me is that you can get a Suhr or an Anderson or an Ibanez or an ESP Strat copy for well over $2000, but the top of the line Fender is about $1900. If I were in the market for a high-end Strat, I would get the real deal Fender. The guitar is pretty basic, and I don't get the premium pricing of the "boutique" brands.
     
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  9. BatmansMarshall

    BatmansMarshall Well-Known Member

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    I have a question about the Vintera 60s Strat. So the middle pickup is RWRP and this means that position 3 is not a playing position and instead it cancels single coil humm from 1 and 5 by selecting either position 2 or 4 around it? So you never use 3 it just is there to deal with humm issues with 1 and 5?
     
  10. Wildeman

    Wildeman Well-Known Member

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    Say what?:cool:
    Dude, it just works like the other two on position 3, hum cancellation on 2 and 4.
     
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  11. BatmansMarshall

    BatmansMarshall Well-Known Member

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    How loud was position 3 compared to the others?
     
  12. RLW59

    RLW59 Well-Known Member

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    RW/RP middle pickup is roughly the same volume by itself as the bridge and the neck. By itself it sounds exactly the same as a regular middle.

    There's string signal polarity, noise polarity, electrical polarity, and magnetic polarity. If you reverse the electrical polarity, that flips both the signal and noise polarity. If you reverse magnetic polarity, that only flips signal polarity.

    RW/RP flips the string signal out of phase electrically, but then the magnetic polarity flips the string signal polarity back in phase. So the string signal is in phase for all 3 pickups. A RW/RP middle by itelf sounds exactly like a regular middle pickup.

    But because RF noise is purely electrical and unaffected by the magnetic field, in the 2&4 position the noise signal from a RW/RP middle is out of phase with the noise signal from the other pickup, so the noises cancel each other out.
    --------------------
    It's exactly the same way a traditional 2 coil side by side humbucker works. You can split a humbucker and use either coil by itself. The string signal from either coil is in phase, it's only the noise that's out of phase on one coil.
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    The quack in 2&4 comes from the comb fitering effect of the different physical locations of the pickups. So Strats with regular middles and Strats with RW/RP middles both quack. Middle pickup by itself on both sound the same. Only difference is that RW/RP middle will cancel noise in 2&4.

    (Some golden eared people claim there's a slight difference in the 2&4 quack with RW/RP. I don't hear it, and no one proposes theories that explain why it might be different. But some people hear a subtle difference...)
     
  13. BatmansMarshall

    BatmansMarshall Well-Known Member

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    Looks like this is a quality control issue. If it should be the same volume then something is wrong. I couldn't get it to distort either. Just sounded totally clean and like - 20db quieter than neck or bridge.
     
  14. BatmansMarshall

    BatmansMarshall Well-Known Member

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    So I went reading and it seems the low volume from the middle pickup is either caused by a grounding issue, wiring is wrong, selector is damaged or pickup is. It's a Vintera MIM. So I can only guess that whatever is under the hood wasn't done correctly or checked properly despite coming with a quality control cert. I am not going to open it up or try to fix this problem myself. Not for that price. I don't mind blemishes and little faults, but pickup not working is something I would expect to find in the discount stores music section. This is supposed to be a mid-range Fender. Not a Squire. Not a player.
     
  15. Wildeman

    Wildeman Well-Known Member

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    Someting wrong in there, flip the guard and show us a pic.
     
  16. Wildeman

    Wildeman Well-Known Member

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    Oh, you gonna send it back? I think nothing of tearing into guitars, i realize some people do.
     
  17. BatmansMarshall

    BatmansMarshall Well-Known Member

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    I don't mind blemishes and small faults that can get ironed out with basic tools and yeah this could be solved in a single solder but maybe not and that could void my warranty. I don't like how this is supposed to have been checked by like several people signing off on it and yet a pickup not working. So I think I am going to end up wanting nothing to do with it because of that which is a pity because I enjoyed part of the Strat sound I was getting from it. 1 and 5. 2 and 4 don't sound much different to 1 and 5 and 3 not working explains why 2 and 4 aren't so different. Bummed out about this.
     
  18. RLW59

    RLW59 Well-Known Member

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    Traditional Strat and Tele pickups have a weak spot in their design.

    The coil ends come out and are tied to holes in the bottom plate. Then the big wires are stuck into the holes, and they fill the holes with solder to connect the coil ends to the lead wires.

    That can cause cold solder joints that work fine at first, and then one day decide to suddenly stop working.

    So a dozen people could have checked it. And then due to rough handling during shipping (or big temp changes during shipping) the solder joint went bad.

    It's not real common -- it's just that there are millions of them and those joints are the weak spot. So when a Fender style pickup stops working, it's usually just a matter of reflowing those two joints.

    I completely get that DOA brand new leaves a sour taste in your mouth. But cold solder joints happen, and it really could have been working perfectly when it left the factory.

    And I completely get that you don't want to risk your warranty or go through the hassle of taking it to a service center.

    But if you like everything else about it, I wouldn't give up on the Vintera or Fender entirely. Send it back and get another one.
    --------------------
    I had a humbucker Gibson that was noisy. Took off the backplate and saw the string ground wire poking out of the hole, not attached to anything. Wasn't snapped, hadn't pulled loose from a solder joint -- they just completely forgot to solder it.

    Stuff happens.
     
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  19. BatmansMarshall

    BatmansMarshall Well-Known Member

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    I get your point that it's probably something really small like this which I can solve. I turned my Dunlop Wah into true bypass which was easy and I expect this problem is a solder that will be even easier to fix. However, if it's not then I have to send back the guitar with a solder I did on it switching around two wires and back again.

    I think I would feel better if the guitar shop knows the guitar was a problem from day #1 and if this is the only issue then fine, but if they fix this and I have other problems elsewhere then they get it's a dud and replace it.

    I was playing Pink Floyd Echos with it and loved the sound.
     
  20. Wildeman

    Wildeman Well-Known Member

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    Sux, good luck.
     
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