DSL40CR vs DSL100HR

SonOfMI

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I’ve got a lead on a used DSL100HR for $700. I can find DSL40CR used for $750 to $800. I like the 40CR’s tones and have read the 100HR is similar. I’ve got a 2x12 with cream backs, a 1x12 with a Creamback and a 1x12 with a V30 in it for my other amps. I don’t play out right now, but just joined a band and we’re putting together a bunch of songs, so we might be playing out soon. But for now at least I play at home and jam with my band - metal and hard rock. I think the 40CR would handle everything and I’d be happy. But this 100HR is cheaper than I can get a 40CR for. Volume wise the 100 is overkill. I’ve got a Weber Mass 200 I don’t use much as I have a Captor X I use to pump my other amps through IR. If i save a few bucks can I keep the 100HR at decent volumes with the Weber I have - maybe just above “bedroom” and still get good tones?
 

Leonard Neemoil

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Welcome to the forum.

If you're using the same type of speakers and cabs for both amps they sound identical assuming the amps are stock.

I have one of each of the non R version and love them both. The 100 has just a tad more low end thump, other than that they sound the same. Of course I need the channel volumes a tad higher on the 40 also.

Since you're looking at the R version you get dual master volumes which everyone says allows great tone at any volume so you won't need an attenuator for either of them.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.


Cheers!
 

Eric'45

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Get the 100HR! I own the DSL40C "non-R", and I have played the 100H. What I found is, these Amps don't need an Attenuator. If you go past whisper- quiet Levels, You can dial them in to sound great. Amps like this really don't benefit from cranking them, you will be fine playing the 100 Watter at reasonable volume, without attenuation and have the Headroom if necessary.
 

PelliX

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Another vote for the 100HR. Agree with what has been said. The only downside is that the 100 uses four EL34's in the output stage vs two in the 40. It's a bit more expensive to replace the valves, of course. I'd still take the 100.

Oh, and :welcome:!
 

scozz

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Get the 100HR! I own the DSL40C "non-R", and I have played the 100H. What I found is, these Amps don't need an Attenuator. If you go past whisper- quiet Levels, You can dial them in to sound great. Amps like this really don't benefit from cranking them, you will be fine playing the 100 Watter at reasonable volume, without attenuation and have the Headroom if necessary.
Right, the Dsl100 and 40 both get their tone from the preamp section more so that the power section.
 

PelliX

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Right, the Dsl100 and 40 both get their tone from the preamp section more so that the power section.

All DSL's do, really. The exceptions to the rule might be the tiny 5 or 1W jobs. I guess you can bias the 40W and up hotter and get something cooking...
 

PelliX

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Also, perhaps a factor to add here is that the DSL combos (in particular, but applies in general) dissipate heat poorly, that is to say, they let the output valves cook the circuit boards and components. The 100 being a head suffers less from this problem.

@Mitchell Pearrow either is a better cook than I am or just lucky - maybe both! :p
 

Leonard Neemoil

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Also, perhaps a factor to add here is that the DSL combos (in particular, but applies in general) dissipate heat poorly, that is to say, they let the output valves cook the circuit boards and components. The 100 being a head suffers less from this problem.

@Mitchell Pearrow either is a better cook than I am or just lucky - maybe both! :p


Excellent point!

The combos are heat machines. Once I finish biasing mine and put it back together I'll be running a small fan in the back because the top of the amp where the handle is even gets cooking. I suppose if you play with the volume lower than 5 or 6 it might be ok, but I'd never know what that's like! :p
 

PelliX

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Excellent point!

The combos are heat machines. Once I finish biasing mine and put it back together I'll be running a small fan in the back because the top of the amp where the handle is even gets cooking. I suppose if you play with the volume lower than 5 or 6 it might be ok, but I'd never know what that's like! :p

Volume isn't it, just idling at 1/10 with no input signal the switches, area around the handle as you said and the back around the FX loop jacks become unpleasant to the touch. I tackled it with a fan, too. There's room to get fan in on the 12V or heater circuit from a technical perspective but I just went with powering it from the pedal supply. As long as you gently (!) extract some heat from around the output valves, you should be fine. Don't point a high-CFL fan inwards towards them directly as that would cause extra thermal stress - just extract gently. :yesway:
 

scozz

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All DSL's do, really. The exceptions to the rule might be the tiny 5 or 1W jobs. I guess you can bias the 40W and up hotter and get something cooking...
Yes the 1 watt Marshalls, even the latest 1 watter Dsl1hr does in the green channel. It’s just a single volume knob in the green channel, and it breaks up nicely imo.

From what l’ve heard, the 5cr doesn’t have that breakup, it’s got a gain knob in the green channel, but even dimed there’s little to no breakup.

The older 5c was just the opposite, no gain knob in the green channel, but the volume breaks up just fine on it’s own.
 
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