Design flaws in Lead 100 MOSFET 3210.

Timo V

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Hell no! In my opinion Marshall amps are perfect (and always have been😇). Still, if you have experienced loud pops and other crap with channel switching (and with other things), you should read this:

 

fitz288

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Hell no! In my opinion Marshall amps are perfect (and always have been😇). Still, if you have experienced loud pops and other crap with channel switching (and with other things), you should read this:

So, this then?
EDIT.

Issue 1: +15V filter caps C9, C58 and C59 were way too big and made channel switching slow. Fix: replace all with 4.7uF caps, switching is now instant and noiseless. No added background noise.

Issue 2: Nasty transient distortion in IC1b. Fix: bypass R3, replace C2 with 100n cap and replace R11 with 68k resistor. No more "BRAAP", normal channel is now really sweet sounding. Also slightly less distortion in drive channel, but better quality.
 

Timo V

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Yes, a loud pop when switching from normal to drive channel, and very slow action (volume drop) when switching back to normal channel. Also with hot pickups and/or boost, normal channel distorts ugly.
 

fitz288

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Thanks,
Never noticed a pop or lag when I channel switched mine.
I actually prefer the blend and don't use a FS.
Mine has been modded with op-amp sockets and different chips - not sure what else, but I'll take a look next time I'm in there.
 

Timo V

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Thanks,
Never noticed a pop or lag when I channel switched mine.
I actually prefer the blend and don't use a FS.
Mine has been modded with op-amp sockets and different chips - not sure what else, but I'll take a look next time I'm in there.
That's the thing. There's different versions of 3210. Mine does not blend, without FS it stays in normal channel. My amp is from 1986.
 

Tatzmann

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That's the thing. There's different versions of 3210. Mine does not blend, without FS it stays in normal channel. My amp is from 1986.
I had 3210 from 1985 and 1986. If no footswitch is attached then both channelcontrols work and
are mixable. The red LED stays off.

But never used that "feature" anyways, amp
sounds way better to me when using either
normal or boost channel.
 

Neptical

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I actually prefer the blend and don't use a FS.

This is thee way young, Jedi.

That's the thing. There's different versions of 3210. Mine does not blend, without FS it stays in normal channel. My amp is from 1986.

Interesting. I have a good haul of 3210s but have been using the same 3 for my blends for quite awhile. You're going to make me check up on that and report back. It's one of the best features of ANY amp I own, seriously. Second, being the Tilt control of my Origin 50s.
 

Mitchell Pearrow

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Both of mine are from 85 with the faded grill cloth. I rarely run them on their own, I tend to feed them from FX send to the front of the amps clean channel, the volume fluctuations are cured by clearing the fx loop jacks, and keeping a patch cord in .
I have no loud pops nor any of the other misgivings I have read about, .. and the way I run them, they just play follow the leader. With either my Dsl40c’s or the Origin 50H, and I get better bite and cut with them.

Cheers
Mitch
 

Neptical

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BTW - somewhere around here (within the past few years) I'm pretty sure I listed the years of my 3210s. I remember one (of 6) of mine started having some issues with volume in/out so I pulled the chassis, sprayed pots, jumped the send/return and never had a problem again. I patched every dang Marshall loop of mine after that and I'm still A-OK ( knock on wood). 🪵

Again, let me say, I have many Marshalls, Fenders and Boogies - and the 3210s will come with me to my final resting place. Hahaha
 

Neptical

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Both of mine are from 85 with the faded grill cloth. I rarely run them on their own, I tend to feed them from FX send to the front of the amps clean channel, the volume fluctuations are cured by clearing the fx loop jacks, and keeping a patch cord in .
I have no loud pops nor any of the other misgivings I have read about, .. and the way I run them, they just play follow the leader. With either my Dsl40c’s or the Origin 50H, and I get better bite and cut with them.

Cheers
Mitch

It's time to ( give a break?) and run these pups on their own. It's truly amazing what these amps can do with an SD-1 in front and the MXR 10 Band EQ in the loop will do. Oh, Pull Boost with Clean Blend is where the gem of these amps reside. Call me crazy, but this is where I'm getting PLEXI vibes....and I'll stand behind this after now owning my (2) Origin 50s! Glassy under the fingertips! I swear Marshall did this on purpose as an easter egg.
 

peterplexi

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Hell no! In my opinion Marshall amps are perfect (and always have been😇). Still, if you have experienced loud pops and other crap with channel switching (and with other things), you should read this:

But who cares, the amp is ancient..
 

goldtop0

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Solid state technology is not as reliable as tubes.
When M first bought out the 3 and 5 series in the '80s there were no end of problems with PCs and dry joints, might be better now I would expect but back then the amps were very hit or miss.
 

PelliX

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Solid state technology is not as reliable as tubes.
When M first bought out the 3 and 5 series in the '80s there were no end of problems with PCs and dry joints, might be better now I would expect but back then the amps were very hit or miss.

Don't mix crap solderwork with the components being put in place or a poor quality board. Valve amps are often harder on the joints than solid state counterparts. Solid state will often fail less gracefully (certain in the beginning), but that's often circuit design, not a component tolerance issue per se. I'd wager to say that decent solid state is more reliable than valve now...

Also, consider the advent of lead-free solder that's been enforced since the 80's/90's - that alone counts for a fair bit of device failures thesedays. I'll happily stick with my all-valve guitar amps, but I don't expect the maintenance and care-free experience that I would hope for in a solid state model.
 

goldtop0

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Don't mix crap solderwork with the components being put in place or a poor quality board. Valve amps are often harder on the joints than solid state counterparts. Solid state will often fail less gracefully (certain in the beginning), but that's often circuit design, not a component tolerance issue per se. I'd wager to say that decent solid state is more reliable than valve now...

Also, consider the advent of lead-free solder that's been enforced since the 80's/90's - that alone counts for a fair bit of device failures thesedays. I'll happily stick with my all-valve guitar amps, but I don't expect the maintenance and care-free experience that I would hope for in a solid state model.

I go back to the technology itself to a good degree with tubes, caps and wiring being replaced in guitar and hi fi amps and they're kept going and going whereas with solid state equipment that's not the case, PCs in some cases are not replaceable.
 


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