Building 1936 cab - Ready!

BlueX

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Took some time but now my horizontal 2x12 1936 style cab is ready. It’s built from 18 mm (about ¾”) birch plywood, using the dimensions from Marshall website on their 1936V. Covered by Purple/Black Levant tolex and 1974X HW style grill cloth, using silver piping and trim strips. Black metal handles and jack ferrule, and detachable casters. Inspiration to the design comes from a Marshall MR1936 Greenback LTD cab that Thomann had for sale for a short period.

Currently loaded with one of each of Celestion G12M Greenback 16R and Celestion G12 EVH 15R, wired in parallel for 8 Ohm mono cab. I like the sound from the cab, with these speakers. Great rock sound! Need to play more with different settings, and compare with the SV212 (stock V-Type).

Not sure how the colours look in the pictures, but I like the cab. The tolex has its character without getting too much in my face. The Strat is pitch black and the SV20H has standard tolex, as comparison. Tolex job in corners is not perfect, but I think I can accept this without corner guards. The cab has a three-piece back, for either closed or open back.

Comments on the work:
  • I painted the corners of the box black, in case there would be any gaps in the tolex, i.e. from shrinking
  • Built a small test object so I could try out how to do tolex on rounded corners (reused several times). There are many YT videos on tolex job, but those I have seen either demo boxes with small radius or they put on corner guards. I have still to find a demo on ¾” or 1” radius where they leave the corners visible.
  • Tried both solvent-based (Casco S9 Super) and water-based (Casco Contact) adhesive. Solvent-based of course smells really bad, and wasn’t too great when trying to reattach tolex that had been lifted. There were some comments that water-based can get lumpy, but I had no problem when using a roller on flat surfaces and brush in inside corners. Water-based was also easy to reattach, and is my favourite (for now at least).
  • Masking off adjacent areas made it easier to apply the glued tolex.
  • Tolexing these ¾” radius corners was not easy. I modified the technique somewhat, but need to look into this more if I build another cab with ¾” or 1” radius.
  • To minimize overlay scrap, you can mark edge and centre on pieces of low-tack masking tape. Worked well.
  • To open up holes in the tolex for the pre-drilled holes for fasteners, you can heat up a suitable punch.

Best YT channels I’ve found on tolex job are Uncle Doug and Modulus Amplification (the techniques above come from them). There are many others, but some are not that great (I think).

Thanks again to all that has helped with info and other support!

Here are some links to other threads, related to this build:
- Recommendations for good tolex glue?
- Pairing 96 dB and 98 dB speakers?

1936 cab 026.JPG 1936 cab 027a.JPG 1936 cab 027b.JPG 1936 cab 028.JPG 1936 cab 029.JPG 1936 cab 031.JPG 1936 cab 032.JPG 1936 cab 033.JPG 1936 cab 034.JPG 1936 cab 035.JPG
 

steveb63

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Cool cab, really nice work.

Happy to hear it sounds as good as it plays.
 


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