Building 1936 cab - Ready!

pulsonicsound

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Thanks! The baffle is reduced for the cloth, and dry fitted. Hopefully it will also fit when everything is ready. I might have to adjust, or make one new back panel. Not a big deal since ti's split into three smaller pieces.

This is my first cab build, and I'm trying to collect as much knowledge as I can in the process.
its loads of fun! plus you can be like "I built it" when people complement you on your cab!

here's a snap of cab I was talking about, its got a maroon block logo on it now and some nice vintage revvo castors
 

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BlueX

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here's a snap of cab I was talking about, its got a maroon block logo on it now and some nice vintage revvo castors

This is a good looking cab, thanks for sharing!

Now I start to wonder if I also should have some tolex above the grill cloth in the front (1962/1974 style), instead of just grill cloth as the 1936 I'm copying. Need to find out how to do that.
 

fitz288

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Now I start to wonder if I also should have some tolex above the grill cloth in the front (1962/1974 style), instead of just grill cloth as the 1936 I'm copying. Need to find out how to do that.
Seriously though, I did some tolex & grill cloth baffles in 2 pieces.
c110-6.jpg c110-13.jpg
And to further mess with your mind, I don't do round speaker holes.
I leave a flat spot where the T-nuts go so I can bore a recess for the nuts to sit flush.
This build also squeezed a 12" speaker in a 10" cab design.
I calculated that top part as covering 5% of the speaker area, and nowhere does anything touch the cone.
 

pulsonicsound

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This is a good looking cab, thanks for sharing!

Now I start to wonder if I also should have some tolex above the grill cloth in the front (1962/1974 style), instead of just grill cloth as the 1936 I'm copying. Need to find out how to do that.
Its not hard to do, vox also do that on their combos/cabs!(selmer as well on the Early stuff)

I like it as it instantly makes the cab look sixties

If your adding a frame to the baffle like Marshall do you just make the frame shorter and add a 4-1/2” strip on top leaving a chanel to push the grill/tolex and t strip into(If that makes sense)

I’d recommend adding the frame(even If your not doing the tolex strip) as it lifts the grill cloth Off of the baffle, meaning it wont rattle or damage the grill.
 
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pulsonicsound

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Seriously though, I did some tolex & grill cloth baffles in 2 pieces.
View attachment 106308 View attachment 106309
And to further mess with your mind, I don't do round speaker holes.
I leave a flat spot where the T-nuts go so I can bore a recess for the nuts to sit flush.
This build also squeezed a 12" speaker in a 10" cab design.
I calculated that top part as covering 5% of the speaker area, and nowhere does anything touch the cone.
They look great! What speakers did you use?
 
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fitz288

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Rhe

They look great! What speakers did you use?
Thanks, I've tried a few different combinations with that Class5H.
I think that pic is a V30 & a 70-80.
Currently those cabs have a pair of G12T-66 Haze speakers.
(sold the amp head last week - might empty those cabs for a new build)
 

BlueX

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Seriously though, I did some tolex & grill cloth baffles in 2 pieces.

If your adding a frame to the baffle like Marshall do you just make the frame shorter and add a 4-1/2” strip on top leaving a chanel to push the grill/tolex and t strip into(If that makes sense)

Do you attach the grill cloth (staples or glue) where it meets the tolex strip, or is just held in place with pin stripe?

Looks like Vox uses a T-shaped lath (or what it's called in English).
 

BlueX

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And to further mess with your mind, I don't do round speaker holes.
I leave a flat spot where the T-nuts go so I can bore a recess for the nuts to sit flush.
Too boring to make round holes.

Seems like a clever design when using knock-in inserts, and great looking builds as always.

I prefer screw-in inserts. As long as the work piece is thick enough they are completely embedded. For the speakers I use M5 inserts which are 10 mm long (baffel 18 mm thick), and outer thread max 10 mm in diameter. Using Celestion 12" dimensions (283 mm or 11.1" cut-out diameter and 297 mm or 11.7" mounting hole PCD) there is still some material left between speaker hole and insert.

Rampamuffar.JPG

Looks like the original Vox design is to leave a vertical strip of material in the centre of the speaker cut-out hole, as speaker protection. Maybe something for my next build, and maybe the reason why Townshend didn't use Vox.
 
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fitz288

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Do you attach the grill cloth (staples or glue) where it meets the tolex strip, or is just held in place with pin stripe?
I did the baffles in 2 separate parts.
Tolex is glued and wrapped around the upper part, grill cloth is wrapped and stapled around the lower part.
There is piping between, and wrapped around both - secured by staples.
Both pieces are front load and screwed to cleats inside the cab from behind.
c110-10.jpg
 

pulsonicsound

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Do you attach the grill cloth (staples or glue) where it meet the tolex strip, or is just held in place with pin stripe?

Looks like Vox uses a T-shaped lath (or what it's called in English).
its held in place by the tadpole / t strip, you leave enough grill cloth to overlap the channel and then its pressed down by the t stripe/tadpole, its a little tricky to do and easier with pinstripe compared to salt and pepper as its not as thick

you can use a little glue as well if you want to be extra sure.
 

BlueX

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Up-dates on my project on building a 2x12” 1936-style cab. Sharing some info, in case other beginners would be interested.

Box dimensions (W x H x D): 740 x 600 x 305 mm (29 1/8” x 23 5/6” x 12“). Note: I used the dimensions on Marshall’s webpage for the 1936V cab. Height probably includes feet, so box should maybe be about 10 mm lower.

Baffle “indent”, from front: top 46 mm (1 3/16”), bottom 25 mm (1“). Baffle slant: 2,3°.

Three-piece back. All pieces have the same height. Edge between middle part, and upper and lower parts respectively, cut at 7,5° angle to make middle part easier to remove.

Box, baffle and back are made of 18 mm (almost ¾”) birch plywood. The box frame around the baffle is made of one extra layer of 18 mm ply. Box is glued together using tongue and groove joint. No nails or screws (could be a problem when routing the edge radius). Used a ¾” (19 mm) radius router bit for edges and corners at the front and sides. 1” radius is probably more correct for Marshall 1936 cabs, but such router bit doesn’t fit my power router (max 8 mm shaft, and I could only find 1” bits with ½” shaft). All other edges and corners where there will be tolex or grill cloth are trimmed with a 2 mm (5/64”) radius router bit.

Grooves for trim strip were cut with table saw, on the flat surfaces. The blade cuts 1/8” (3,2 mm) wide, and I use the same depth. On the ¾” edge radius I made the groove by hand, using a 1/8” chisel, and Japanese saw.

Box frame around the baffle, and the horizontal supports for the back panel (top and bottom), are glued in placed, and the joint is reinforced with glued wooden dowels (no nails or screws). The vertical supports for the back panel (both sides and middle) are screwed in place (to get baffle in and out), and there are also wooden dowels to get consistent positioning.

Caster sockets protrude into the cab, and I placed them out of the way of the baffle. Drilled the holes after routing the edge radius, to make sure the flat part of the socket was not sticking out over the radius.

On the front of the baffle there is a frame made of 12 mm (about ½”) ply, about 15 mm (19/32”) wide at sides and bottom, to hold the grill cloth out from the baffle. At the top this frame is wider, and the upper part will be tolexed. There is a 1/8” by 1/8” trim strip groove cut about 15 mm from the bottom of this frame, and tolex and grill cloth will meet in this groove. I made this upper part of the frame just as wide so I still could front load speakers (if needed). All frames are glued in place, reinforced by wooden dowels (no nails or screws).

There are vertical supports at the centre, on the inside of both baffle and back panel. There is no pole between baffle and back since I will use this cab also as open back.

I use thread inserts both for speakers and back panel, to be able to change configuration easily without wearing out screw holes.

Marked orientation on some parts (where it’s not obvious). On removable parts I placed holes for dowels 1 cm (3/8”) “off” to avoid wrong orientation.

I painted black on all surfaces that won’t be covered by tolex, since the cab will be used also as open back. Now remains my first tolex job, and my first grill cloth job. And speaker selection, of course.

There are of course numerous websites and YT movies on cab building. One that I found useful, e.g. for tolex work, is Modulus Amplification.

1936 cab 016.JPG 1936 cab 017.JPG 1936 cab 018.JPG 1936 cab 019.JPG 1936 cab 020.JPG 1936 cab 021.JPG 1936 cab 023.JPG 1936 cab 024.JPG 1936 cab 025.JPG
 

fitz288

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Nice work! :applause:
Much more detailed than my garage scrap pile hack job cabs... :D
 

Geeze

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Your attention to details is awesome! I tend to fall prey to 'Git 'er done!!!' way too soon in the build process.

When will you stuff in drivers and let her rip?

I am a weirdo on speaker attachment - I drill an undersized [.040"] hole, countersink then thread the #8 screws 90% on then pour in thick CA and seat the screws.

7HSAP8q.jpg


iX2McJ8.jpg


Don't like T nuts or threaded inserts and this is quick and easy two very important build requirements.

Russ
 

BlueX

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Your attention to details is awesome! I tend to fall prey to 'Git 'er done!!!' way too soon in the build process.

When will you stuff in drivers and let her rip?

I am a weirdo on speaker attachment - I drill an undersized [.040"] hole, countersink then thread the #8 screws 90% on then pour in thick CA and seat the screws.

Thanks Russ! I think design and problem solving is as fun as the building itself, so...
Haven't decided on speakers yet, so they're not even ordered. Coming closer to that, though (some GB type).
Smart, and inexpensive, solution for speaker attachment (saw that in your build thread, as well)! Will probably borrow that in the future.
 

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