New member here, but long time lurker. Recently rejoined the Marshall family and have a replacement JVM410 inbound. I regretted selling my JVM the entire time since I sold it and corrected that mistake. I'm considering replacing/upgrading my Hotplates and am looking for feedback from people using attenuators (not re-ampers) for knocking off only 4-8dB from my master volume amps. No longer playing out, and my amps are just used in my home studio. I'm not looking to go from fully cranked amp to "bedroom" volume, nor do I want to get the power tubes cooking, and I realize that there's nothing like pants flapping cranked Marshall through greenbacks stressing. I have very realistic expectations and simply want the best attenuator, not re-amper. I use an attenuator as a way to get a more gentle slope of the master volume on my amps in my space, and to add in a little low end to compensate for the effects of lower volume. The hotplates are essentially working, but I'm wondering if the newer Mesa attenuators or some others might be more reactive, or sound better than what I have. I did have a Rockcrusher before, but stupidly sold it when I unloaded my JVM, and don't want to just get another Rockcrusher without testing the waters a bit. Amps are the incoming JVM410H, a Mesa TC-100, Mesa Mark 5:25, Friedman JJ Jr. and a DSL20HR. Yes, these amps all have "good masters" I still like to attenuate for the reasons I stated above. Any experiences that may help me out?
I've tried the bugera PS100 with good success but sold it for a Weber Mass 200 which can handle anything. I has a smooth dial not steps so you can tweak anything in between knocking a few dBs to bedroom volume. The best attenuators usually have a reactive load which emulates speakers rather than solely a passive load. PS1 is a passive attenuator while WM200 has reactive load too.
Hotplate is an attenuator! Unless you dont like it then get something else, people seem to like the Weber attenuators around here.
Yep, fully aware of what I have owned and used for 15 years. As stated, was looking for the next better version. Thanks.
@Monstercastle First, to this great forum! Next, it's my considered and experienced opinion that the best, least tone/response robbing attenuator design was developed by our own @JohnH ! It is well detailed in this linked thread, but you need some minor hand tool and soldering skills to build it for yourself: https://www.marshallforum.com/threads/simple-attenuators-design-and-testing.98285/ Over the years since the inception of attenuators for guitar amps in the '70s, I've tried nearly all designs and brands and always been left at least a little bit disappointed. The JohnH design will not disappoint! Again, To The MF! Gene
...........Welcome back to the forum! Before you do anything,.....you need to watch this till the end.
Yes indeed, the Rivera units are certainly well rated and revered! They have some nice bells and whistles added, but are much more pricey than even having someone build one of the JohnH units! If tool friendly and able to build it yourself, the price of the RockCrusher is between 5 and 10 times the price, depeding on your parts sourcing. Please note that the JohnH design is also a reactive unit, even though a glance at the diagram may look all resistive. Note also that the JohnH has no compensation switches, because the design does not need them. John has diligently analyzed and tested to find the most appropriate impedance balances/ratios as well as also factoring in and addressing the reactive impedance "seen" by the speaker, in addition to the reactive load/impedance "seen" by the amp! There are different versions for different impedances, as well as details for "scaling up" the design for higher wattage use. For my own uses, I vastly prefer the @JohnH design! Check It Out, Gene
I'm not opposed to building one and in fact it may be a cool project. I've built an 18 watt head and a bunch of pedals, so I may just do this for fun.
@Monstercastle Not sure where you are located, but if resistors and some other components get sourced (and endlessly waited for) from Chinesiawanoreanam, the build can be between $60 & $90 if all comes from Mouser, DigiKey, etc, expect nearly double. Important to not cheese out on the switches and jacks. That whole thread is a very interesting and informative read, though there are a few pages of "chaff" here and there that are easily waded through! And yes, its a pretty fun project, if you like working with your hands! My eventual goal is to one installed in every one of my amp cabinets, custom tailored for each !Inductor core sourcing can be a challenge, depending on your location. Enjoy, Gene
If you do have a go, I can help with any advice and discussion about our design and how to make it work best for your needs and what parts to get. Many have been built successfully now. They are a very simple robust design, the tricks are all in the exact balance of coil and resistor component values that keeps the tone consistent at all levels. Pre covid, the parts to build a 50W (ie for a nominal 50W amp) version were about $100. Figure a bit more now and if you want to crank your 100W amps. The build is way easier than any amp or stomp box. All the key info is on post 1.
I'm very fond of my Weber Mass in the other hand if you want to go bananas you can buy a boss tube amp expander or a fryette power station. I think both are overkill for your intended use.
Try an EQ with level control or volume box thru your FX loop If it's serial, you'll have 100% of what you wanted (acts like a multiplier on master volume, so Volume box 1 Master 1 makes for 1% volume, etc), and if it's parallel, like 30% effective
Wasn't the Power Soak dangerous for the amp ?...............I know the UA was but not sure about the PS ?
No, not at all. Its one of the best, well made pieces of gear ive ever owned. Most attenuator horror stories involve user error like most things in life.
I used to have the Scholz unit back in the day. I had the sustainer and eq as well. I currently have that hotplate too, and the purple 8 ohm as well.
