Another 2203 Build

Discussion in 'Building the Classics' started by dinkyguitar, Feb 19, 2021.

  1. dinkyguitar

    dinkyguitar Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Messages:
    257
    Likes Received:
    110
    Finished the heaters...literally took me the whole day.

    Wiring heaters really sucks.....anyway I got them done.

    Heaters Finished2.jpg
     
    adew1 likes this.
  2. Chris-in-LA

    Chris-in-LA Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2018
    Messages:
    2,366
    Likes Received:
    2,132
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Nah, wiring heaters gets a bad rap, it’s all fun.
     
  3. Adieu

    Adieu Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2013
    Messages:
    2,354
    Likes Received:
    2,297
    What's the total cost of materials for such a build?
     
  4. coolidge56

    coolidge56 Well-Known Member Double Platinum Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2019
    Messages:
    1,158
    Likes Received:
    2,491
    Location:
    WA state hinterlands
    I hate heater wiring. Chris I'm worried about you brother. Dinky you don't need to twist the arch over to the socket pins. Twisting 2 reds or 2 blacks together does nothing, only when you twist a red/black pair do you get some hum canceling. Straight arch to the pin socket is fine on your next build.
     
    Chris-in-LA and adew1 like this.
  5. adew1

    adew1 Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2020
    Messages:
    226
    Likes Received:
    153
    Location:
    Switzerland
    Me too! :)
     
    coolidge56 likes this.
  6. adew1

    adew1 Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2020
    Messages:
    226
    Likes Received:
    153
    Location:
    Switzerland
    Can’t speak for dinkyguitar, but my 2203 build was $1300 or so, excl shipping. Around $550 for the Valvestorm kit (can be less depending on components chosen), transformers approx $450, headshell approx $300. But it’s easy to spend more if you go NOS components and tubes. I’m in Europe, so probably another $100 on shipping costs and duties here and there.
     
  7. dinkyguitar

    dinkyguitar Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Messages:
    257
    Likes Received:
    110
    More work....pics are not in order, but following the instructions.

    I'm starting to get worried I'll miss a wire....

    OT Primary Wires2.jpg

    HT 1amp wire2.jpg

    POTS Grounding2.jpg

    4cap wired2.jpg
     
  8. dinkyguitar

    dinkyguitar Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Messages:
    257
    Likes Received:
    110
    Almost done.

    Taking my time...I put a few pieces on, take a break, think of where which wire goes where, go over what I soldered, etc.

    Hope it works when I finish :D

    Almost done2.jpg
     
  9. adew1

    adew1 Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2020
    Messages:
    226
    Likes Received:
    153
    Location:
    Switzerland
    Nice job!
     
  10. dinkyguitar

    dinkyguitar Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Messages:
    257
    Likes Received:
    110
    Well I fired her up today (on my second PT....don't ask I'm still pissed at myself :facepalm:) took voltage readings on everything and they came really close to the measurements in the Valvestorm instructions.

    Biased the tubes which were supposed to be matched, ha, but were off by 2mA.

    I got 481v at PIN 3 on the output tubes, @70% is 36mA, but went slightly lower.

    I can say it's VERY loud considering.

    So I put it on the rack with the Soldano & Peavey 5150 and started hearing static, low volume helicopter sounds.

    Put it back on the bench, power on, standby off, volume on 2, guitar plugged in but volume off. When I moved the guitar around it changed the noises and level.

    Poked inside with a stick and it seemed to be wire "placement" related. Moving my hand over sections of the amp cut the noise as well....but......it was my dreaded wireless router. From the router to the bench is about 8ft, it's about 5ft to the rack where I put the amp in the first place.

    So I had to fold the antenna's down and a lot of the noise went away.

    I'm hoping when I build my cabinet, and line the bottom with a copper sheet, like a kick plate, the noise will be gone....my other amps don't have this problem.

    Done2.jpg

    I have to play with it more to see about the noise level...

    dinky
     
  11. _Steve

    _Steve Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2020
    Messages:
    399
    Likes Received:
    339
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    looks way better built than my original 2203!
     
  12. dinkyguitar

    dinkyguitar Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Messages:
    257
    Likes Received:
    110
    @coolidge56 I remember you once posted something about mounting something next to the input jack to reduce noise..not sure what it was but it had a name to...I'll have to look for it, but it was to reduce noise.

    I'm wondering if that would help...
     
  13. neikeel

    neikeel Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2014
    Messages:
    5,671
    Likes Received:
    4,230
    Looking good
    I would not adjust anything until you have it in its shell with a bottom shield
    BTW 2mA bias spread at idle across a quad is nothing!!!
     
    coolidge56 and adew1 like this.
  14. dinkyguitar

    dinkyguitar Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Messages:
    257
    Likes Received:
    110
    I played it again and man it has some bottom end! I even have the bass down to 3. Hooked up my boss sd-1...glad i did not get rid of it, and it sounds really good. A noticeable amount compared to my SLO50 clone.

    I also have a granger fx loop I'm planning to install as well....
     
    adew1 likes this.
  15. South Park

    South Park Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2019
    Messages:
    3,505
    Likes Received:
    3,048
    Nice job that noice is ground related the bonding wire in the plug my not be connected good that is what grounds out the chassis
     
  16. dinkyguitar

    dinkyguitar Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Messages:
    257
    Likes Received:
    110
    Which ground are you referring to? The ground wire going from the high input to the buss wire that connects to all the pots?
     
  17. South Park

    South Park Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2019
    Messages:
    3,505
    Likes Received:
    3,048
    The green wire on the plug that goes to earth ground. If it is not connected the chassis will pick up power and have no place to go . All roads lead to Rome and all power wants to go to ground
     
  18. coolidge56

    coolidge56 Well-Known Member Double Platinum Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2019
    Messages:
    1,158
    Likes Received:
    2,491
    Location:
    WA state hinterlands
    Step one, shield the bottom of your chassis brother. For bench testing Home Depot/Lowes carries sheet aluminum in the HVAC section. Its thin enough to score and snap with a utility knife. I use a steel piece of sheet metal from my local hardware store for bench testing. Its stiffer, tougher than aluminum.

    Now as to the item you were referring to that's the Randal Aiken RF interference obliterator mod. Which is a fancy way of saying a .01 film cap between the input jack shield directly to ground as close to the jack as possible. I'm talking like 1 inch to the side of the jack, distance matters, a lot. That slams RF riding on the guitar cable shield right to chassis ground killing radio station RF "deader than hell" as Randal says. If you are in an area where radio station RF is an issue this mod works great.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2021
  19. coolidge56

    coolidge56 Well-Known Member Double Platinum Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2019
    Messages:
    1,158
    Likes Received:
    2,491
    Location:
    WA state hinterlands
    Good eye @South Park

    @dinkyguitar drill a hole in your chassis about 1 inch to the right of where you have attached your green mains ground wire to that filter cap screw. Attaching the mains ground to that cap clamp screw is not cool. Mains ground should have its own hole in the chassis at the far down stream end of the chassis.

    Here's my JCM800. I'm using a round electrical connector, both crimped and soldered to the green wire. Then bolted to the chassis with a #10 screw, star washer and locking nut. For drilling a hole in a chassis this far into the build I use 2 inch wide painters tape to wall off the rest of the amp chassis to contain the drilling chips to a small are then shop vac them up.

    can25.jpg
     
    adew1 likes this.
  20. coolidge56

    coolidge56 Well-Known Member Double Platinum Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2019
    Messages:
    1,158
    Likes Received:
    2,491
    Location:
    WA state hinterlands

Share This Page