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Discussion in 'Let's Talk Vintage' started by Matthews Guitars, Jun 28, 2020.
If and when I need one I know where I buying one now...thanks!
I should mention that soon I'll be able to offer every panel type in plexiglas as well. (Actually Lexan polycarbonate...much stronger and harder to crack than real plexiglas). Even types that were not originally offered in plexiglas, if someone actually wants that.)
Any plans for JCM800 panels? I imagine you are already doing JMP 2203/4s.
Definite maybe. The issue there is that while every JMP Marshall is at least 40 years old and a large percentage of them could stand to get new panels and get restored to some extent, the 800s are obviously newer, probably in better shape, and probably haven't been modified as much as the earlier JMPs. So there's much less of a market for JCM800 panels at this point. Or so I believe. As the market is apparently much smaller, there's much less motivation for me to pursue it as of yet.
I'm still trying to complete the lineup of offerings for JMP era Marshalls, anyway.
Yes, I'm doing every known variant of the 2203/2204, both front and back panels, with and without front panel serial number block, except for the early transitional and the Canadian versions, simply because I need to find people who have those who are willing to compare my drawings to those versions and declare them good, before I say I have them available, too.
You have done some really nice work on these, those are very impressive looking.
the only detail I notice missing is the black dot. where the selector would go
the superleads have this dot too, but smaller dots on the outside of it. I assume it is a template for drilling it out for a selector switch. It has the smaller dots around the mains input too. My amps have this and I have seen others with it but I am not certain it is on all of them.
Yes, I have the dots on some specific back panel versions but not on all of them. They are guide spots. And they apparently are easily rubbed off being so small.
As I do revisions I'll add them to new panels as time allows and research indicates.
You mentioned the multiple versions Marshall had. My 78 had the JMP real close to the tolex edge. I always though it could have been laid out a little better - more to the right several ticks to the East..
I sent you an email this morning and later read that sometimes your address doesn't work. Let me know, thanks.
Minor updates and comments. Because some head cabinets cover up the J in the JMP logo, I move the JMP logo slightly inward. It is an intentional deviation from true authentic positioning but you'd only notice in a direct comparison and I think this would be preferred. On the rare occasion where it's come up, people have said they'd rather have the JMP logo be fully visible.
I know, Marshall usually used dymo gold label tape to do the fuse holder amperage ratings, but I'm printing directly to metal. But this does not
prevent you from replicating Marshall's dymo labels yourself. However finding embossing tape in that narrow width....that's a challenge. It's why I don't do it. I have not yet found the 1/4" wide tape.
I know, that tape wasn't always Dymo embossing tape. On my 2203 from 1979, that tape is simply a printed gold finish label tape, while on my 1959 from 1974, it's gold Dymo embossing tape. Same holds true for my 1959 from 1973.
I have not made any effort to duplicate those tapes. But if I should find some Dymo 1/4" tape in the right color it'd be easy enough to make a batch.
There are waterslide transferred safety decals applied to many back panels. As time went on and there were more safety marking regulations, Marshall just had those waterslides made and applied them as needed. I haven't bothered to have those duplicated but if you think that there's any point in me offering them in the interests of a higher level of detail and authenticity, I could do it.
It seems that on the front panels, fonts changed slightly almost every year. The fonts on original panels I have from 1970, 1973, 1974, and from a reissue are all distinctly different, even if only slightly. This came to light after I had already settled on a font that is as near to a perfect match as is possible to my 1973 Superlead panel example. For Master Volume models, I matched to a 1978 example, and I note that the master volume panels with rocker switches seem to all share the SAME font, which makes things easier. d
So, I'm offering the rocker switch panels in their correct font, and I'm offering all other non-master-volume front panels in the 1973 font,
for the time being.
Imagine how complex this project would become if I had to stock panels in three or more different font variations, in addition to every other possible variation and iteration there is.
The basic 1959 front panel alone, either with or without polarity switch, was made, at one point or another, in probably seven to ten specific, slighly unique variations. I've seen them with lines linking the input jacks together, and without. I've seen two different fonts for the Roman Numerals I and II around the input jacks. I've seen a version with "equalisation" printed on the panel under the tone controls. I've seen three different fonts for the numbers, so far.
It is impractical for me to trace down, authenticate, and verify EVERY possible variation.
You would think that something as simple as Marshall front panels would be just that...simple. Well, the deeper you dig, the farther down the rabbit hole goes, Alice.
Hi Chris, I purchased one of these panels direct from you, back in October, and now I don’t seem to be able to make contact. You haven’t shipped the panel yet. I’ve emailed you many times with no response. Sorry to approach in a public forum but I’ve exhausted all other avenues. Please can you either make contact or ship the panel? Please message back and I’ll privately share all contact details.
Message received. Apparently this is the only way we can reliably connect now. I could tell you some stories about email troubles I've been having!
I have your panel. It's safe. But somehow all the work I did to replicate it got erased. I've got scans of it and will redo the work as soon as I can get to it but I'm in the process of launching a guitar and amp repair business right now and that has consumed my life! Now that things are starting to get rolling, I'll be able to get back to it soon.
Thanks but with respect it’s already been 8 months. Please can I have a refund. Can I also suggest you sign up with gmail or similar, as I have never known anyone have so much trouble with emails.
I’ve sent you a private message on here, please respond.
Wow... Damn, Dude. If this is how you do business, you can count me out. It doesn't matter how good are your panels if you treat your customers like this.
Same with me Bro!
You actually posted this in a forum where you're trying to sell replica panels.
So, you got paid to make this guy a panel eight months ago and you still have the panel but you lost the information and didn't complete the job. Then you're not answering his emails because you have "email problems"? You posted that. Email problems. No other way to get in touch with him?
Then, you launched a guitar and amp repair business that has "consumed your life". So, screw him? You took his money eight months ago! He had to come here to track you down and was WAY nicer than I would be. He asked for you to refund his money a WEEK AGO and you STILL haven't resolved the issue and you're STILL dodging him? And I saw you post a few minutes ago so I KNOW you've read his posts.
People, if he would do this to that other guy, he would do it to any of us. That could be me or you trying to get our money back from a guy who doesn't give a rat's ass about it.
You need to refund his money. Good luck with your new business.
I had a similar experience. I got one of his panels on eBay because I couldn't get him to respond to my inquiries here, and for peace of mind. Took forever to ship under different excuses (printer issues, waiting for the latest most updated version, waiting for the top coat to dry, etc, etc.). When I finally got the panel, it was ridden with printing mistakes and it was a lot lighter in colour than the original I wanted to replace. So after sending some pics of the defects I asked for a refund. Which took forever too. I think in the end I got lucky because of the eBay factor.
Yes, I've had some problems. As a result of some of those problems I'm no longer accepting "special order" panels because of them. And I always try to make it right if it goes wrong. Ultimately any successes or failure are my responsibility no matter what the hangup in production or delivery is. If I get an order and discover that I'm out of stock and have to get another run made, that's not the fault of my metal shop or my print shop, it's my fault. I need to be on top of my stock levels.
Part of what I'm trying to get done at the new shop is to have a dedicated inventory section for my panels, by model. So I KNOW how many I have and if I run out, temporarly suspend the listing on them until they're back in stock.
However, I've sold literally hundreds of panels to very happy, very satisfied customers as well. I'd rather that my defect/unhappy customer rate was zero, and I always need to work harder to achieve that, but when things go smoothly I deliver a good product.
I do prefer to sell via ebay because even though it costs me a little more due to ebay fees, the process of tracking orders (and handling the occasional return or other issue) is easy and has its own documentation system.
Incidentally, there's nothing I can do about any small material mismatches between my panels and original Marshall panels. I'm not using the same aluminum vendor. I don't even KNOW what vendor that is. Odds are it's in the UK and I'm in the USA. I have ordered up samples of materials from every vendor I can find in the US and selected those that are closest to the original material.
Even then I've seen substantial variations between original panels on Marshalls, with regard to both character of grain and color of the gold anodizing. I've seen some that were so pale it almost looked like clear anodized aluminum, and I've seen others that were shading toward orange. What I usually use is very close to a typical panel as per the ones I've had my hands on.
I do have an alternate material that looks more like the original than the aluminum I usually use, but it's a thin skin of aluminum over a phenolic or fiber base, like Formica. I'm hesitant to use it because its construction is so different from the originals. But it's a better match with regard to grain character and anodize color, being just a bit darker.
Makes you want to run right out and buy one of his guitars now, doesn’t it!?