Still looking. In the mean time, I'd like to know if adding a Master volume would be beneficial? I only play at home so I would like some decent distortion without killing myself.
I've had a look at the variety of attenuators on the market, but I'm unsure on what to go for if I go that route.
I agree. Lots of options and threads on the topic you can search. I’ve used an aracom and a power brake safely for years but there are other options.
Ive got both a Rivera Rockcrusher and a Bugera PS1. Different ends of the attenuator spectrum but both do a solid job and both have their pro’s and con’s. I wouldn’t be modifying that amp, that’s for sure.
The Rivera seems to be a popular one as well as the Universal OX one. Alright, I won't be modding it then. Haha! I've only purchased new amps and haven't had any experience with vintage ones...
I'm just wondering if you are looking at the wrong amp? Going by your avatar, and the interest in a superbass, I suspect you may be a Tool fan. I just want to point out a few things: 1) AJ blends his SuperBass with a Diezel VH4, with the majority of the distortion coming from the Diezel and the SuperBass blended in for punch and clarity. 2) Superbass amps are ungodly loud, so an attenuator will be necessary. 3) My experience with these amps has been that into an attenuator or with a master vol mod, the overdrive tones are not stellar. Allman Bros classic rock light overdrive is cool, but if you really push the amp for more dirt than that, the tone falls apart because there is too much bass in the pre-amp. If you really want a vintage amp, I'd suggest looking at a 2204 or 2203 instead. If you are after Tool tones, you may be better off forgetting about the vintage amp thing and look at more modern designs. Just a thought.......
I recently picked up a 76/77 Super Bass that I’m in the process of modding to be similar to Adam Jones’s specs. His has been modded to a Super Lead - you may be better off buying a Super Lead and tweaking that. You may need to adjust some values as I believe he still has some components at stock Super Lead, and others carried over from the Super Bass. Another thing to bear in mind is they are extremely loud. PPIMV mods are popular but IMO compromise the tone when in use.... they just always sound better maxed out to me so become a bit redundant. I like attenuators but they have pro’s and cons too. I’m using a ReactIR which has a lot of features and sounds good.
I sold a '77 Superbass for that a few years back.... yours isn't a home market (UK) amp that is now in the US, is it?
Be prepared to be changed forever. Your MV amps might just collect dust after you play a super bass with the volume at~ 7 and a Slight boost.
Hmm a lot of information to sway me both ways. Maybe I'll hold out and just stick with the DSL for now....
The 71 SB we modded for my son was shooting partly for Jone’s Tool tones. I left the output section alone apart from Winged C 6550s so tweaked bias circuit and 120k grid leaks. The preamp is modded to have a V0 as cascaded 2203 with 0.68/2k7 and 8k2 on the cathodes and 0.022 couplers. V1 is stock SB. Iirc there is 470k/1800pF treble peaked, 1M pot with 180pF ‘bright’ cap on the pot. The 470k mixer is un bypassed. He runs it with a Motherload elemental one output using the cab sim mixed with SM57 on a 68 basket weave B cab with T1511 and T1221 ‘prerolas’ into the board. Using Les Paul with BB3 on the bridge pup it is snarling but lots of lows and grind. So much so I’ve made a copy of it!!
I admire your attempt to achieve Adam Jones’ tone. I’m a big Tool fan and Adam’s tone is the best I’ve ever heard. Good luck my friend!
I'm also chasing the Adam Jones' tones. I am about to pull the trigger on a '76 Super Bass and have it modded to the Jones' spec. Is his Super Bass post mods the exact same as a Super Lead from the era? They are both priced similarly on the pre-owned market, so I'm wondering if I should just save myself the time and expense of having the Super Bass if sonically it's the same as a stock Super Lead.
Ideally you use a turret board version - it is easier to mod and reverse f you sell. Basically keep the output section (bigger output couplers use 120k-150k grid leaks and 6550s) Next you cascade V1 with stock marshall values (2k7/0.68uF -> 8k2 cathodes) and 0.022uF couplers like a 2203, only difference is between the stages would usually you use 470k/470pF treble peaker, but in this you use 470k/2200pF as it helps with more low end later. Where you merge the two channels on the SB you have one 470k to ground and the other bypassed with a 470pF cap (should already be on board). Anyone familiar with these amps will know how to do it. We settled on a 180pF bright cap in his amp. I did build a copy but with EL34 values and it does not have the depth that the 6550 am has, it is a bit brighter. My son prefers the 6550 amp and it is hard to imagine how it could be made any better when you plug in a Les Paul with BB3 bridge pup.
