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@MatFnEhUK I’ve built several of my own cabs and the most important thing I’ve found is keeping the fabric/tolex really tight as you staple and or glue it. Practice cutting mitered corners and stretching the material on corners with some scrap material and a scrap piece of plywood roughly the...

@JohnH just for clarification, jumping the SW1 pole to the 16ohm throw essentially converts the unit to 16ohm by default then bypasses the 8ohm series for a 8ohm impedance?

@JohnH oh I see now what you mean. Thank you for the clarification!

Could you sketch me up a schematic for the changes you’re suggesting. I guess I’m not quite understanding.

Most of my cabs are 8 ohm that’s why I opted to do an 8ohm build with the added outputs for flexibility. What on the schematic I drew would you change with that in mind?

Most of my cabs are 8 ohm that’s why I opted to do an 8ohm build with the added outputs for flexibility. What on the schematic I drew would you change with that in mind?

@JohnH I drew up a schematic for a switched 8/16 ohm input version of the M2v. Does this look correct? I’m wanting the input to be 8 or 16 ohms controlled with a SPDT switch on the front panel of the unit. I also want to maintain the 3 outputs of the standard M2v schematic. I went off is the...

@JohnH Thanks for the tips. I ordered the parts and they should be here tomorrow. Build pics to come

@JohnH I understand how to simplify the M2v using one input jack (16 ohm) and a toggle switch to change between 8/16 ohm modes. What has me scratching my head a bit is how the R12, R13 and L2 section doesn't affect the other two inputs since it appears to be in parallel with the 8 ohm load...

@Gene Ballzz I agree 100% that avoiding unnecessary switches, jacks, and other parts is best. Not only does it increase the cost, but also the construction and operation complexity. Quick question. If I was two make two versions, say a 100W and a 50W version, would I use the 150% rule on the...

@JohnH Thanks for all the info! After reading your above reply I'm thinking I wouldn't need a 4ohm jack. Are you saying there's a configuration allowing one universal input and one DPDT switch can change that single input between 8ohm and 16ohm? That would be the way to go if so. Do you have a...

@JohnH I have a 100W, an 85W, a 50W, a 30W, two 20W, two 15W, two 5W and several 1W/<1W

@JohnH I have 8 and 16 ohm cabs and amp outs for the most part. The attenuators would mostly be used for home playing at reasonable volumes.

@JohnH Again thank you for the fast reply! All great information! I did have a couple more quick questions. Have you made 100W versions of the M2v? Would I just double all the power ratings of all the components and use 14 or 16 wire? Third question is about a built in fan. Is it even...

@JohnH Thanks for the fast reply! I'm going to omit the headphone jack for the first variant. I understand about the wiring diagram. It makes sense considering everyone is sourcing their own enclosures, parts, etc that vary is size and shape to some degree. I'm good on that. I've built a few...

Hi all! Wanted to begin my question(s) by saying this is an awesome thread and it’s nice to see so many helpful people coming together to help the guitar community as a whole! Special thanks to JohnH for this awesome design! I’ve been looking over the latest and some older schematics of the...