Bassmec

I took my DSL 50 apart to repair it again!
when I had finished removing the heat cracked carbon tracked belton octal valve bases with the unusually small pcb footprint?, well what do you know the circuit board carbon tracked in sympathy between pin 2 and 3 so I cut down with a dremell tool till i found clean grp and built the board back up with resin and scrim you may wonder why I didn't just order a new populated PCB but then marshall haven't got round to quoting for one yet.
And I need my amps to eat so I then obtained some nice glazed ceramic octal sockets but of course they had sensibly widely spaced pins splayed out in such a manner as to proved a good percentage more clearance between the somewhat larger solder pins in the PCB but due to the tight pattern on the marshall TYPE 60 bd they had to be modified to conform to the belton socket pin size and placement, much twisting and fine pincer work to remove enough silver plated high quality socket pin to fit through the little holes the belton uses and got rid of the horrifically thermally poor components in the bias circuit exchanged the SAMWAH! lytic caps for proper Nichicon 105 degree rated caps oh and gave it a monster Sowter custom output trans cos the original one was leaking primary to ground a bit and in comparison to the one in my JCM 800 didn't look big enough to pull the skin off a rice pudding.
And my amps have to put up with jimmy hendrix clones all day every day as I operate a busy rehearsal facility and nothing puts up with abuse like my old hot rodded 800's or sounds better maybe when I get this fired up again and see if it keeps stable bias this time no more thermal runaway for me chaps!
Come with it hendrix clones! with your fuzz faces and still have the amp on ultra gain, dime'd just incase it stops feeding back you shall not destroy my
hopefully now bullet proof much repaired/modified DSL 50.
Unless of course an unsuspecting spider totally unaware of the dangers of high tension DC carelessly walks across the PCB and leans against pin 3 when all of a sudden a tentatively outstretched limb contacts pin two and ZAP his sad little shriveled carbonized body is stuck firmly to my PCB bridging ever closer until the point at which the tiny polyester resin strip insulating between the pins begins to carbonize and ht fuse will give up the will to live.
Perhaps I should fill the area under the valve base with silicon sealer to deter things getting in there but how good an insulator is that stuff long term?.


I was expecting to find an easy to read straightforward accurate diagram of the wiring connector number to connector number but no I cant find one.
Is this information top secret chaps?.
Where is it hidden and who do I have to kill or sleep with to get it.

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Bassmec

Bump!