Which 2558 should I buy?

Discussion in 'Marshall Amps' started by marco_giampa23, Mar 24, 2020.

  1. HOT TUBES 70

    HOT TUBES 70 Well-Known Member

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    Here's a story for you Jeoff !!

    In 1990 i was in St. Johns music on Broadway poking around and there was a 2x12 Jub combo there for $350 , Crazy deal !!! so put down a deposit on the amp and asked them to hold it till i could come back and pay the rest owing etc.

    So a few weeks later i go to pick it up , and they tell me that they sold the amp to another guy cause he could pay for it in full right on the spot . So to this day , i have never been back to that music store . I was kinda pist about it ... they did end up refunding me my $100 . And so as crazy as that went down , i ended up finding a 2210 head and cab about a month later in B sharp in Regina !!!
     
    El Gringo and Jethro Rocker like this.
  2. Kinkless Tetrode

    Kinkless Tetrode Well-Known Member

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    I would try to get some of that Barges cement. Try a leather craft store. Make sure the surfaces are clean. Put the cement on both the tolex and the wood. Wait a few minutes so it gets tacky and restick it. Use rubber gloves and have some acetone on hand with a blue shop towl in case it gets where you don't want it.

    For really small tears, you can kinda hide them with a silver ink sharpie. For larger gaps you may to fill them in with a paintable caulk before coloring them in. Once again use gloves wetted with acetone to shape the patch.

    You can also get vinyl upholstery paint for car interiors in a color that matches as close as possible for touch ups. Just spray some in a paper cup and then brush it on with an artist brush.
     
  3. Wenander

    Wenander Active Member

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    well if pots brake they should be replaced...they dont age like caps. they can get dirt in them a doo a scratchy noise when turned
     
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  4. marco_giampa23

    marco_giampa23 Active Member

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    Just went and played amp #2, sounds absolutely amazing, love going to the clean channel and using the rhythm clip.

    Is the lead channel supposed to be the push/pull pulled out? Is rhythm clip on pulled out?

    no scratchy pots and the push pulls are fine. 2 of the pots are easier to spin than others but non are stiff. Input jack is a little loose but that's not a problem.

    It has its original filter caps though, spoke to their tech and he said that he didn't think that they needed changing anytime soon.

    Has svetlana tubes that were in pretty good nick, took some photos but don't have the data to upload them, onto amp #1 now
     
  5. Jethro Rocker

    Jethro Rocker Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Sounds really good man. Yes lead channel with red LED on front w knob pulled out. Same w clip. Clip doesnt really affect Lead channel it just gets a tad queiter. This is all normal. Caps in mine are original and it is still really quiet. Some of the knobs on mine spin more freely as well.
     
  6. marco_giampa23

    marco_giampa23 Active Member

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    Just played amp #1 it was even more battered than I thought, 3 of the knobs were replaced and had afew replaced pots, had original filter caps in it but has EHX tubes. It sounded more fizzy for some reason.

    I decided that #2 is the way to go, might be able to get it now depending on the payment method.
     
  7. marco_giampa23

    marco_giampa23 Active Member

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    Yeah someone has switched it on amp #2 so the LED on is with the knob pushed in, I'll be in that mode practically all the time anyway so I guess it's cleaner to have the knob in
     
  8. mickeydg5

    mickeydg5 Well-Known Member

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    Use glue on the tears.

    Buy the best/cleanest one first. That seems to be #2.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2020 at 12:10 AM
  9. marco_giampa23

    marco_giampa23 Active Member

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    Just bought #2 and holy bajesus this thing is amazing, will post some photos soon
     
  10. mickeydg5

    mickeydg5 Well-Known Member

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    You will be a happy person.
    Learn to use that effects loop to your advantage.
    Bias 6CA7/EL34/E34L on the hotter side if you play at lower volumes.
    :thumbs:
     
  11. marco_giampa23

    marco_giampa23 Active Member

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    Sold most of my pedals so only have a wha at the moment, havn't checked what the bias is like.
    Will do some more output master/ lead master blending.

    My settings are:
    Input Gain - 7
    Lead Master - 6
    Output Master - 1.5
    Treble - 5.7
    Middle - 5.5
    Bass - 7
    Presence - 5.5
     
  12. mickeydg5

    mickeydg5 Well-Known Member

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    That is cool if you do not use outside distortion. Opinions vary with use.

    Always check your bias regularly.
     
  13. marco_giampa23

    marco_giampa23 Active Member

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    This isnt my first tube amp but definitely the first I want to really look after. I have alot of experience building pedals but not much inside amps. Ill attach a photo of the bias pot and some of the pcb but not sure exactly where to check bias. And bias is voltage not current, or is it both im not exactly sure? I have a multimeter so thats not a problem but would I read off the bias trimpot legs or somewhere else.

    I have had to crop the living hell out of this photo for it to not be too large sorry bout that IMG_20200326_162342 (3).jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2020 at 4:23 AM
  14. mickeydg5

    mickeydg5 Well-Known Member

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    That appears to be the bias trimmer, RV1 at 22k.
    To bias simply you either need 1 ohm 1% bias monitor resistors installed from each power tube cathode socket lug to chassis ground or external bias probe(s).
    If using the 1 ohm bias monitor technique then you read mV across the resistor. That translates into mA at 1:1 do to the 1 ohm precision resistor. If you read 40mV then it = 40mA.

    With a current measuring type probe the low mA are read directly.
     
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  15. El Gringo

    El Gringo Well-Known Member

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    I would go for amp # 2 ,even though it costs more because it is in better condition . I did not even notice the broken part of the H in the Marshall logo until I read it in your post . Like I said I would go for the cleaner and better shape
    That stinks that they did that to you after you left a deposit , and like your self I would never set foot in that place ever again either . I would also spread the word and tell others to avoid that place as well . That is the worst !
     
    HOT TUBES 70 likes this.
  16. marco_giampa23

    marco_giampa23 Active Member

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    Oh that is more simple than I thought thanks
     
  17. marco_giampa23

    marco_giampa23 Active Member

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    we got #2
    Another few questions, when working on amps and internals readings, the amp will be on standby right, never fully understand what standby actually does. And does the 1ohm resistor need to be 1% tolerance, is that just for accuracy? And could the resistor be left in ot does it need to be removed every time
     
  18. mickeydg5

    mickeydg5 Well-Known Member

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    The 1 ohm resistors for bias monitoring would be installed and stay. There is not need to remove them.
    You want at least 1% or better tolerance so that the reading on your multimeter has the best accuracy possible for evealuated the bias current.

    If the resistor was say 5% and wasa out at about 5% then its resistamce would be 1.5 ohms.
    So this is how they would read on your multimeter:
    1% or lower, 1.00 ohm exact = 40mV reading
    5%, 1.05 ohms = 42mV reading
    10%, 1.10 ohms = 44mV reading
    See the difference? Most resistors will be close when new but could drift while a lower/close tolerance would be more stringent. Soit is best to just buy 1% or better for the most accuracy.
     
  19. marco_giampa23

    marco_giampa23 Active Member

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    Ill see if I can find some online, thanks!
     
  20. marco_giampa23

    marco_giampa23 Active Member

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    does wattage matter? I found this at my local store but doesnt say the tolerance, is it worth just testing them in store and finding a close one?
    And should I go carbon, metal or wire wound?
    https://www.jaycar.com.au/1-ohm-10-watt-wire-wound-resistor/p/RR3340
     

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