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Discussion in 'Cabinets & Speakers' started by SkyMonkey, Sep 10, 2019.
Just seen an ad for 2 VOX Greenbacks at a very reasonable price.
What do you think?
Vox branded G12M-25 Greenbacks. Same as normal factory ones. Buy 'em if the price is reasonable.
What Georgiatec said. Hell yeah.
@Georgiatec is right, get them if the price is right
they are MIUK...
£85 for the pair?
but they are 8 ohms, perhaps why he is flipping?
Says they came from a 1999 Vox AC30.
16 Ohms in series for an empty 212?
A great buy. Perfect for a 212. Wire in series for a 16 ohm cab. I have the same in my 1922 cab, a '69 and a '77 both 8 ohm in series. Very useful cab.
oh, not 4x12, for a 2x12~ yes, That is the way to go actually. That is what you want! By doing so you are actually using all the windings on the transformer. Nice.
probably nicely broken in and sound great too
here in Aus you wouldnt get 1/2 of one for that price
If I did go for them, how could I tell if they are good?
They are not set up in a cabinet.
OK. Meeting the guy on Saturday to do the deal!!
If you never hear from me again, you'll know he was a murderer!
Taking a G12T-100 too, £110 for the lot!
All dependant on condition, DC impedance, and the 9V battery test.
Just gently move the cones from the rear of the frame. No scraping noise good, scraping is cone rub, which is a sign the speaker is on its way out.
Test electrical continuity with a multi-meter.
You do not need to do a 9v battery test AND a multimeter test in my opinion. Either one will tell you if the speaker is dead or not.
To check a greenback speaker should be very quick and easy but most people dont know how to do it properly, and usually nowhere near thorough enough.
First you just need to check everything is glued down where it should be. This is not usually a problem on more recently made speakers - late 80's onwards as the glue Celestion used from then onwards was a lot more robust, but check anyway. The most important area to check is the spider support, but also check the dustcap in the center of the cone, the outer gasket and edge of the cone. If any of these are coming off, or have gaps in the glue, it's a problem. Everthing needs to be glued down for the speaker to sound right.
To check for coil rub you can do this with your bare hands and ears - just make sure you are somewhere quiet then you can hear any scratching. You need to check both the inward cone movement AND the outward cone movement. Press lightly around the edge of the cone, rather than directly down on it. Although if it rubs when you press directly down on it that is definitely a severe coil rub. Pressing around the edge is a more thorough test. Also check the outward cone movement by pressing from underneath the cone upwards.
This page might help:
Ideally you need an audio generator and to play your guitar through it too, but just a visual inspection and moving the cone with your hands will weed out the most serious problems.
Cheers @BygoneTones, that is a thorough explanation with the webpage too. I may have to change the meeting place to find somewhere quiet enough for the spider support and coil rub tests. I think I will go with the multimeter.
Cheers guys. I will report back and then, hopefully, I can start planning a 212 cab project for my DSL.
Looks like the front gaskets have been pulled off hard from the cab. IDK if there is enough gasket depth to make a good seal on a cabinet,
you'll have to check in person. I'd make sure it wasn't loose, either. But it does look like some of it is missing.
That might be a worry then?
Here is the other one:
Any advice on how to replace the gaskets?
I was thinking I would only need to carefully trim the old gaskets off and replace with new.
If the gasket is higher than the edge of the rim, then it might not be a problem. I've never replaced one, so no help there.
But I know the cone edge is glued under the gasket, how hard to just take off the gasket...IDK.