TSL-100; convert from 220V to 110V

Discussion in 'The Workbench' started by unique7string, Dec 20, 2008.

  1. unique7string

    unique7string New Member

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    I got a TSL-100, which is UK-rated for 230V. Now that I have moved to N-America, I am looking for a way to convert the amp to 110V (or 117V per Marshalls' spec).

    Looking at schematic TL10-63-02 Rev4, it seems that all you have to do is rewire the W4 & W5 connections to respectively W1 & W6. With these red wires just being plugged on the designated tabs, it seems like an easy fix. That and replacing the F1 fuse with a 4A, of course.

    The only other difference I noticed on the schematic is the type of power switch, but this maybe just because of the light therein. Unfortunately, I can't think of a way to remove this switch without breaking those rear plastic tabs which are bend in place.

    Anyways, will this do the trick?
     
  2. BeëlzeM

    BeëlzeM New Member

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    The easiest way would be to buy a stepdown voltage convertor. 230v to 110v. They're not that expensive but it's something extra to carry around.

    Too bad the modern Marshalls don't have the voltage selector switch on the back anymore like my 800 head has.

    Don't know about rewiring the transformers man.
     
  3. goodlime

    goodlime New Member

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    I have a UK vintage modern 2266 combo that I need to use when I move to the US. I've looked into step-up transformers, they run about $50-$100. Here's one AC 220V TO 110V CONVERTERS Transformer type, STEP UP STEP DOWN TRANSFORMER , EUROPEAN PLUG, CONVERT 110 VOLTS TO 220 VOLTS and another Jameco Electronics Power Supplies & Wall Adapters: VARIOUS : P-8689.

    I'm just starting my research on this, so not 100% certain of exactly the specs and whether this is the best way. My amp says it draws 375 watts on the back, so I'm guessing that a transformer capable of 500w would work as long as I only have the 1 amp plugged into it.

    Ideally I would like to avoid lugging around an additional box, so if there is another solution I'd like to hear it.

    GL.
     
  4. bk4283

    bk4283 New Member

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    Hello unique7string,

    I was in the opposite situation -- I purchased my TSL-100 in the US and just moved to Europe so I had to convert it from 110V to 220V. I found the same schematic you refer to and agreed with your assessment of what needed to be done.

    I was feeling lucky, so I implemented the mod -- moved connections W1 and W6 to W4 and W5, respectively (the reverse of what you need to do).

    I haven't changed the fuse yet (in my case, this is more dangerous as the 110V fuse is rated for 4A whereas the 220V fuse should be rated for 2A) but I had to turn it on and see if it works. I held my breath and turned it on -- nothing blew up! I played my guitar through it and it sounds great!

    I see that there are two different part numbers for the switch as you mention. I am a little cautious about the switch as 220V is higher in my case and it don't want it to arc or anything. In your case, you should be fine since the voltage is lower.

    I recommend that you carry through with the mod yourself. It's easy! By the way, I don't recommend using a 110V-to-220V transformer as others have recommended. You will lose power going through such a transformer and it will be big and heavy. Plus, why pay extra money when you can do the whole thing yourself with a screwdriver and pliers? The fuse should cost you about a dollar.

    Good luck!
     
  5. mc_guitar

    mc_guitar New Member

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    Hello,

    You are right the voltage is lower, but as you metioned earlier, the current increases, thats why you have a 4A fuse for 110V and a 2A for 220V. So the Switch has to be reliable even at that higher rating. Be sure to check that as well, you only got one life!

    Best Regards,
    Michael
     
  6. unique7string

    unique7string New Member

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    Hi bk4283,

    Thanks for your reply. I totally understand the urge to sometimes just try things out and hope for the best.

    In this case though, I did replace the fuse first and unhooked the trafo output connectors. I measured some voltages accross with both 220V and 110V input to check if they would be consistent, using the right connections of course, and they were! For instance, voltages measured between the black and two white wires (W12 and W11, W13) were around 22V in both cases.

    So in the end I connected it all using 110V as input, still held my breath before firing away with the thought that it either would work, or it would all explode. But... it works! I also checked the bias voltages afterwards for a couple of times and it stayed stable (88mV in my case).

    Regarding the light switch: it still works and powers the amp on, although the light is a little less bright now.

    Thanks!

    To others responding to this message:
    Thanks as well. I failed to mention that I was already using a 220/110 converter. I was looking for a more permanent solution, without the burden of the additional converter.
     

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