The dsl joey mod thread

Discussion in 'The Workbench' started by TwinACStacks, Apr 5, 2010.

  1. maltone

    maltone New Member

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    Re: Front Board C8 & C12

    Did the full Joey Mods well over a year ago, but never changed C8. Originally lowered FRONT BOARD C12 to 150pF - later removing it. Put in 150pF again tonight and like the RED channel much better.

    Front Board C8 was changed to .0015uf tonight. MUCH better bass. Definitely clearer, less boomy, more detail. I dig it.

    One question though, those values from the original Joey Mods list for FRONT BOARD C8, were those like the JMP or JCM 800 values?
    .0022uF TO .0015uF

    — I'm just curious.

    Thanks.
     
  2. AndyK11

    AndyK11 Active Member

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    This is a cool idea!! How much mid boost would there be, and what frequencies are now being boosted with the tone shift button?
     
  3. therealjoeblow

    therealjoeblow New Member

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    Does anyone know who makes the multi-conductor board connectors for these amps (model no/brand)? IE CON3/CON10, the 6-pin multi connector on the front and rear board?

    thanks
    TRJB
     
  4. G the wildman

    G the wildman Member

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    Hi guys,

    Do I need to discharge the stored voltage in my amp to check the bias. I suppose the answer is no as I need power on. But I am more thinking about removing the head can I get a shock whilst doing that?

    What precautions should I take.

    G
     
  5. G the wildman

    G the wildman Member

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    Oops it is a DSL40c
     
  6. mickeydg5

    mickeydg5 Well-Known Member VIP Member

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  7. therealjoeblow

    therealjoeblow New Member

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    Nevermind, answering my own question here. ALL of the small white board connectors on the JCM 2000, Vintage Modern, MG series and most other modern amps are "JST EH" series connectors, available from Digikey and various eBay sellers.

    Cheers
    TRJB
     
  8. Pandemic

    Pandemic New Member

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    Hi yall! I am about to pick up one of these bad boys tomorrow. I used to have a jet city 100h that i modded but its flimsey and not that roadworthy, so i found a cheap Dsl 100. I am hoping the PCB versions checks out so i can mod this one too... (I just like tinkering with stuff)

    But if the pcb´s dont match am i then resorted to not being able to do the mods or should i just try and match up the differences in the schematics and find where the parts are on the other drawing ?

    Cheers from Denmark :)
     
  9. Pandemic

    Pandemic New Member

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    So i for my DSL and I do like the bastard but it definitely needs some mods ;) but when I cracked it open the revisions of the boards don't seem to match any of those listed in this thread. The main board is a jcm2 60-00 ISS 6 and the other 2 are the ones are also different front isjcm2 60-00 ISS 3 and the loop/output board jcm2 62-00 ISS 2... How do I go about figuring what's what on the boards ?
     
  10. Micky

    Micky Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    So are those the boards in your DSL? When was your DSL manufactured?
     
  11. Pandemic

    Pandemic New Member

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    As far as I can tell by the serial number on the back 2006... I have some pictures of the boards I can post in case I'm reading the bloody thing wrong ;)
     
  12. Pandemic

    Pandemic New Member

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    Serial Nr. M-2006-16-0707-A
     
  13. chuckharmonjr

    chuckharmonjr Well-Known Member

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    yep..I'd make that as a 2006 model
     
  14. rockgod212

    rockgod212 Member

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    well im working on my amp again, I made a lot of improvements with chassis mounted power sockets, no more high voltage heat issues on the main board. now, I had already modded my bias to a 1 pot circuit like the old school marshalls, so now im in the process of going a step further by removing the bias cap's and building a bias cap board like the older marshalls have for ease of biasing and easy access to change parts if need be, plus the bias ground will be on chassis and not the main board. I have a few odd ball questions though,

    1. why did marshall use 47uf bias caps?
    2. since im going to a 2 bias cap circuit, what value cap would be best? I ordered 10uf, 22uf, and 47uf@160v. im thinking split the difference and use the 22uf@160v with a 10k to 15k between caps and a 10k to 50k bias pot.
    3. is there any other way to tap my AC bias voltage other than the 2- 22vac taps to bias recto's?

    just curious.
     
  15. RickyLee

    RickyLee Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    Hopefully you see this post. I am thinking you should start a thread in the Workbench as it will be seen.

    That is quite cool removing the power tube sockets from the main board. I have considered it but just can't get myself to do it LOL. My '98 DSL100 is actually all stock and I am still just blown away at the difference in tone between my '05 DSL100 when it was stock as well as my '99 TSL100 while it was stock. I have no bias drift issues on this '98 DSL100, so the superior tone might be partly due to the main board is not acting up in any way. Actually, I did upgrade all the bias supply components and swapped the power tube grid resistors from 220K to 5.6K.

    Actually, I just got done installing a Classic Tone 3H choke. So she is not stock anymore. I can't say I am hearing a clear difference, but it is somewhat tighter on the low end response. Maybe a slight less noise. The noise/hum was what I tried to concentrate on as I had the amp cranked to max volume with guitar volume OFF with the 270R resistor. Then I soldered in the choke immediately (already had it mounted) and then turned on amp with the new choke for a comparison. I then played Lead 1 with Volume around 6 and Gain at 6 and OMG! This amp is what the DSL is supposed to sound like no doubt. Nothing wrong with having the front control board 470pF C12 in this amp. I was playing AIC Would?. The tone was there in spades.

    What I don't like with the choke upgrade is the higher B+ voltage. The resistor drops 8V while this choke only drops under 3V. But then I need to remember there will be major difference under load with the choke inductor. Pros and cons.

    I was also going to reduce the main board C12 first gain stage cathode bypass cap a bit, or might put a switch to give me options of .47uF (or maybe .68uF), 1uF and stock 4.7uF. But I really do not think this amp needs it. Lead 1 is the highlight of this amp big time and the stars were aligned somehow on component values when this amp left the factory. If most DSL's and TSL's sounded like this one, there probably would not have been this mod thread to begin with.

    :naughty:

    As for your bias circuit, I am sure you got it sorted now. Did you stay with the stock voltage feed? You could always tap off the HT leg like many other amps do for the bias supply voltage feed.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2016
  16. RickyLee

    RickyLee Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    I rushed a quick audio clip of this '98 DSL100. Clip blows but it was all I could do to make noise for a few short minutes LOL. It starts on Crunch mode then goes to Lead 1 at 11 seconds. Back to Crunch at 24 seconds with neck single coil then stays on Lead 1 at 37 seconds rest of the way. Shows how close Green channel and Red channel are on this amp. My '05 DSL100 was nowhere near this as its Red channel had very sharp highs, almost ice pickey. And that amp had a bad overall fizzy tonal texture.

    This recording was just my little Tascam DR-05. The lows got a bit distorted on the mic. Clip shows just a touch of the tight midrange defintion and grind on the Lead 1 mode that you would hear in person.

    This amp loves the cheap Svetlana EL34's. They sound very similar to Wing C EL34's except they have a much tighter and focused low end in this amp.

    http://www.soundclick.com/player/single_player.cfm?songid=13341888&q=hi
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2016
  17. rockgod212

    rockgod212 Member

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    sounds killer
     
  18. HOT TUBES 70

    HOT TUBES 70 Well-Known Member

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    Question ??


    When doing These mods to the DSL amps , is these any of these Cap or Resistor mods that would be cool to put on switches on the front or rear panels ?
    Or are these mods just best to do them and leave em well enough alone ?
     
  19. Traveller

    Traveller New Member

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    Guys, slightly offtopic, but I suppose here I can find most answers for my question - how do You find PCB Quality in DSLs? I am aware of bias drifting issue, but I heard that PCB in DSL is generally prone to bending (too thin I suppose?), what can cause reliability problems. Is it true? Was there any changes in PCB thickness among the production years? I am currently looking for DSL50 and I wonder which 'era' is concidered as a "most consistent". I am based in Europe, so I think it would be hard for me to find one with Drakes, so I plan to stick with 2003-2012 models, to find something that shouldn't have bias drift problems, and still be made-in-UK, but this PCB still concerns me...

    Any help with choosing Duper-Super-Lead for me will be gratefully welcomed, both here and on my topic: http://www.marshallforum.com/index.php?threads/dsl50-issues-and-year-ly-production-quality.89708/
     
  20. RickyLee

    RickyLee Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    This second DSL100 I have is basically stock. But I did add a choke to it just a few weeks ago. I was considering doing something as you mentioned for the first gain stage. I might make that first gain stage cathode bypass cap switchable between .47uF or .68uF/1uF/4.7uF. Stock it is 4.7uF.

    A switchable bright cap on the Red channel Gain pot is another idea I am considering.
     

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