Super Strat Build...

Discussion in 'Guitars' started by DirtySteve, Apr 24, 2018.

  1. DirtySteve

    DirtySteve Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    This is what I'm thinking. First I need to get the grain to pop and be a dark brown while not darkening the rest of it too much. Then I want to do a tobacco brown dye on the back (still transparent, but very dark) and have it fade out quickly as is comes over to the top from the sides. Then on the top maybe a vintage amber dye and then the tobacco brown on top with the amber showing thu, or maybe the amber needs to go on top after the brown I don't know. I actually watched a video of a guy doing this finish on an acoustic and it seems like he did the brown and then di the amber on top, but now I can't find the video again.

    There's just so many different ways to do this and not many resources for learning how to do such a specific thing. I have a feeling I'm about to strip my swamp ash Tele down and sand the body down so I have a way to experiment and then I'll just redo it with a solid finish after I figure out what I can do. I never liked the way that one came out anyway. lol!
     
  2. Geeze

    Geeze Well-Known Member

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    It [like almost all dyes/stains/penetrating finishes doesn't go very far into the wood - generally in the .002" to .005" depth. Easy to sand down. I'm very confident in this tea wash and the results so I do it on all light woods.

    Generally the light colors are applied first unless you're dry brushing to accent structure - a whole 'nother discussion.

    The book Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner is a very good resource for understanding wood and it's reaction to finishes. That and bit of FUCK IT, I'M GOING IN!!!! attitude gets me places I never thought I go and mostly with happy results.

    Or you could just do a boring old paint job...

    Russ
     
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  3. DirtySteve

    DirtySteve Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    I'm pretty sure I'm going to try the tea wash after what you've said. Should I use grain filler first? I'm not even sure I want to use grain filler anymore, I've done a lot of reading and what people say about what happens if you don't use grain filler has never happened to me, but I'm wondering if the stain might go on better if I do a grain filler first. I'm really confused on the grain filler thing, I don't care if I have texture in the grain that you can feel, I'm more worried about not getting any blotching when I do the tea wash..
     
  4. Geeze

    Geeze Well-Known Member

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    Never used grain filler. It seals as it fills and will affect the absorption of anything on top. I'd wash before filling if you go that route - some say to stain/dye before for the same reason. I plan to experiment with tinted finish on scrap at some point. After I get done building an insane picture box for my mom.

    I've found a pic of the last body [I believe alder] I tea washed.

    [​IMG]

    I've washed alder, ash, maple, poplar and not had any blotching.

    Russ
     
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  5. DirtySteve

    DirtySteve Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    Thanks, Russ. :yesway:
     
  6. DirtySteve

    DirtySteve Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    In true DirtySteve fashion I said fuck it and dove right in. 2 coats so far, when I wet it down again with the second coat the grain was already popping more that the first time so I can see how the sealer oil coat is really going to make it pop. I'm loving this tea wash, looks like it going to do exactly what I was looking for!
     
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  7. DirtySteve

    DirtySteve Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    Tea wash is done. I'll let it dry over night then put a tru-oil coat on in the morning to seal it. I'll take another pic before I do the oil to show it completely dry and then oiled.

    Here are some pics of each coat. The first 2 pics are after it dried, then I thought I should be taking the pictures while it's still wet because that's more like what it'll look like after it's oiled so the rest are wet. Oh well, I screwed that up..

    1st wash..dry

    [​IMG]

    2nd wash..dry

    [​IMG]

    3rd wash..wet

    [​IMG]

    4th and final wash..wet..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  8. DirtySteve

    DirtySteve Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    Well I don't think it's going to lighten up anymore over night than it is right now, it's pretty dry. Here's a shot of the back so you con see how much it colored the wood because I didn't stain inside the control cavity.

    [​IMG]

    And here's the top dry...I really like the way it colored the wood. It colored it more than I expected based on what Geese said, but I really like what it did.

    [​IMG]
     
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  9. Trident

    Trident Well-Known Member

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  10. DirtySteve

    DirtySteve Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    Well, I expected a little more but the first oil coat always looks dull.

    [​IMG]
     
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  11. johnfv

    johnfv Well-Known Member

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    That looks great Steve. Wish I had known about the tea wash back when I did my Tele :yesway:
     
  12. DirtySteve

    DirtySteve Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    I'm pretty sure Geeze told me about it before and for whatever reason I ignored it. :facepalm:
     
  13. DirtySteve

    DirtySteve Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    I'm really worried about the next step, this is where I could really screw it up. :ohno:

    I have plenty of time to think about it tho, I'm not doing anything else to the body until I get the neck and get it to the same stage...a tea wash and a couple of coats of tru-oil. Then I'll be able to see how the 2 will match up which will determine how brown I go on the back and how the fret board looks against the top. I already know I'm thinking too much, but knowing is half the battle. :lol:

    I'm just thinking the tea wash was too strong maybe, it colored the lighter wood darker than I thought it would and the grain doesn't pop as much as I thought it would and was expecting. I may even sand the top down and start over.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2018
  14. johnfv

    johnfv Well-Known Member

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    Steve. Step away from the wood. Slowly :) Seriously dude, that looks awesome. Give it some time...
     
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  15. Geeze

    Geeze Well-Known Member

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    I'm liking it a lot. Let it sit a couple of days unless you have a gig with the Stones next week and you want to impress Keef.

    If you want to lighten it think about accents. The last body I did I dyed cherry then steel wooled it back and hit it with purple which highlighted some areas. If you're in sand mode maybe experiment [you know me - I see a design cliff and I run at it with BANZAI!!! on my lips] with tinting the true oil or hitting just the high spots with 320 or 400 grit in a block to lighten areas that follow the grain then true oiling again.

    Another trick from model railroading is the dry brush technique to accent structure. Works best when there is some bias relief to accent. Put a small bit of paint on a paper towel then light touch both sides of a small brush to it. Blot the brush on dry paper towel until it's almost dry then swipe the brush 90° to the structure with rapid strokes. Dark colors first moving toward lighter in smaller amounts.

    Meditate on options then run at the cliff screaming BANZAI!!!

    Russ
     
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  16. pedecamp

    pedecamp Well-Known Member

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    Looks fantastic, dont second guess yourself, put the final coats of tru-oil on and be happy. :yesway:
     
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  17. Derek S

    Derek S Well-Known Member

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    Looking great! Can't wait to see the hardware stage pics now. Great thing is, I know you're going with black but with that well balanced shade of the body, if you ever feel like a change, chrome would look amazing too.
     
  18. DirtySteve

    DirtySteve Well-Known Member VIP Member

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    I was thinking about that. I haven't ordered my OFR or my tuners yet.
     
  19. johnfv

    johnfv Well-Known Member

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    Seriously, that looks so good, it's making me consider trying another DIY finish job
     
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  20. Trident

    Trident Well-Known Member

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    Dayumm Steve!
    That looks awesome!
     
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