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Discussion in 'The Workbench' started by Jae, Sep 2, 2009.
Just to add to what Damien said and further answer your question. The two bias trimmers are there to aid in balancing idle bias draw of a fairly matched set in a the push-pull situation. This will reduce hum and noise in the output. It can help somewhat with power but balancing power is a different issue and is why you want matched sets. Of course matching can mean within 20% of each other (the old days) but most sets are within a few percent nowadays.
Ok. Thank you!
I will order a matched Set of Tungsol 6V6 for my Haze 15.
Greetings from headache after beer House
I have a pair of JJ 6L6GC's that I pulled from an amp. Just for S&G I tried them in my Tweaker 15 head and they sound really nice. I'd like to hear them in a Fender amp before I pass judgement but the Tweaker is all I had. They seem to have pretty strong mids for a 6L6.
Here is a good one. Seller is listing a pair of EL34's for sale as Mullards. Someone asks if the tubes have any codes. He states one does, it is an xF2. Okay, great. Look at the getter and the plates on these two tubes. See anything that jumps out at you?
The one on the left is not a Mullard.
Which manufacturer had the ribs in the plate, one of the Japanese? I forget.
Hey folks. I know I could probably find this if I searched endlessly through this thread (I did try), so sorry if I'm asking people to repeat a topic already covered repeatedly...
Is there any difference between the "EL34B-STR" sold by TAD versus the one sold by Ruby? Do they both just take a Shuguang EL34B and test or screen it? If so, do you think one does a better job testing than the other? I see the Ruby available for around $40 per pair, while the TAD are more like $50.
Also, how do people feel the EL34B-STR compares to the Tungsol EL34B (which are about $50 per pair), or the Groove Tubes EL34M (which are like $60 per pair), or the SED =C= (which are now like $100 per pair)?
Looking for balanced/versatile tubes... Good clean and crunch, but also lead tones with rich blooming harmonic content, sustain, and light compression. Not too much to ask from a reasonably priced CP tube right?
The TAD's look like the Shuguang, but they are supposed to be different internally. I recommend the TAD's over the other one's you are talking about.
The EL34M is a more warm tube with softer highs and good bottom end. The =C= is more mid-focused with good crunch. Either is a good choice in a Marshall. I preferred the EL34M in my DSL but the SED's are great too, just a different tone. Based on the sound you're describing, it sounds like the EL34M is what you should try.
I can't really give the others a fair shake. I have a pair of TAD's any I've had Rubys too but I didn't get to do a side-by-side comparison. The TAD's sound nice in my Egnater.
Didn't mean to step on Marty's toes. I'm slow on a cell phone.
I don't have any toes to step on.
I like the GT EL34M's, but the TAD's have just been getting a lot of good positive reviews.
Thanks guys! That's helpful. Really appreciate it.
Seems like there's not much love for the Tungsols?
Well here's what I think about the Tungsol's. They can make the bass boomy with certain amps that have an unfavorable tone stack that accents the bass frequencies. In the right amp they can sound okay, but they aren't a favorite of mine and they don't seem to be a big seller.
Hard decision between the TAD and the Groove Tubes...
TAD = cheaper (about $50 delivered for a matched pair). GT = slightly more (about $65), but no wait as I could just pick them up at my local Guitar Center (puke).
I'm sure they're both good, and I probably could not tell them apart in a blind test.
If the EL34M is potentially a more warm tube with softer highs, it may work better for me, as I find the DSL40C is quite a bright amp.
You need to stick a Mullard or Tungsram in V1 to get a warmer tone. The EL34M's are a little warmer than the TAD's. If you want warmer, go with the 34M's.
Just from feedback that I have received, it seems that the TAD's have a better history of working without developing any issues. If you are buying from GC, find out what sort of warranty are on the GT's. If they don't give you at least 90 days, I would hesitate to buy them.
Thanks Marty. GC warrants them for 90 days.
Honestly feels kind of weird to be buying tubes (even CP) at GC.
Think the Groove Tubes "rating" (i.e., low 1-3, medium 4-7, or high 8-10) on the EL34M matters at all?
Seems like on Amazon you can pick the exact rating number you want... just search "GT-EL34-MD R1", "GT-EL34-MD R2", "GT-EL34-MD R3", etc. And they're a bit cheaper than GC. Maybe I'll do that.
I've always recommended the 4-7 rating. I don't know how or if there is a difference between the 1-3, the 4-7 and the 8-10.
Supposedly the 8-10 has the hardest vacuum over the other two. It supposedly has more clean headroom. Who knows?
The 1-3 break up sooner. That's what I have. They sounded great in my DSL50 but that didn't happen in the DSL40C. I'm having that happen in both power and preamp sections. It's not translating the same between my 2 DSL's.
Personally I'd go for the Tad's for the 40C.
+1 on the GT EL34M I have them in my Ceriatone JMP 50 and they sound great I have had Zero issues with them. Like the TAD tubes they were made in China to their Spec. GT had higher quality before Fender bought them also, they started out relabeling NOS tubes and when those ran out relabeled Russian, Chinese and JJ, they did also have some tubes made in China to their spec.
Hurray! I was able to finally buy a single getter Sylvania Fat Boy 6CA7 that matches up with another single getter that I have. The new one tests at 95 and the one I had tests at 91.
I have one more single getter that tests at 82. I would like to find a match for it as well.