plexi users opinions wanted

Discussion in 'Marshall Amps' started by Buzzard, Jul 24, 2019.

  1. Buzzard

    Buzzard Well-Known Member

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    A nice marshall plexi reissue popped up for sale locally (about an hour away). These usually never come up. I assume it's not the handwired one. Also ,no effects loop. Recently tubed and serviced. I already own every tube model head marshall makes except any of the plexi's.I enjoy them all. My first marshall I got was a 70's mint, metal panel 100w stack with 2 salt/pepper cabs covers etc. However not long after I got it it was stolen out of my bands practice space. I remember it being loud as f***! I got a tom scholz power soak and it sounded like a castrated dog. No balls. We did'nt have much in the way of pedals at the time to try.Early 80's ,so I did'nt know any better.I've been on the fence about which plexi to get. Of course it needs to be usable.I'm not going to use it to play out. I'm more into van halen levels of gain. I like the 12000 series 68' marshall tone so I really like the suhr sl 68 the best. Any opinions from users are appreciated, before I pursue this amp any further.
     
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  2. 67Mopar

    67Mopar Well-Known Member

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    The Suhr SL68 is a Guy Hedrick build. I prefer a virgin (no effects loop) Super Lead. You're not going to run a Super Lead to power tube saturation at home, so just run your effects to the input. If you want distortion before the effects, get a Gurus Double Decker, Crowther Hot Cake, or a Zendrive 2.

    You may consider getting a VOX AC15 for home use. Ed used VOX and Marshall interchangeably to great effect. Personally, I can't imagine being without either one. If you dig Ed's "1984" tones, run a Marshall + Vox [stereo] using a Crowther Hot Cake, Boss EQ, Rockman Stereo Chorus, Stereo Echo. You can also add some plate verb.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2019
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  3. Chris4189

    Chris4189 Well-Known Member

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    A simple LAR/MAR will allow you to crank it at very usable levels and it will cost you under $100 to get it done. If you want the Cadillac of attenuators, I can’t recommend a Fryette Powerstation brought. I love mine!

    I’m sure others will vehemently disagree but at the end of the day the true plexiglass super leads aren’t that much different versus the metal panel super leads. Yes, on the forums people act like the differences are complete night and day different but they aren’t. To keep it very basic the metal panels break up earlier and are a little more brighter vs the plexiglass ones but that’s really about it. The filtering changes are more feel then tone.

    I’ve owned some of the big name boutique Marshall’s, Germino, Metro, Fargen, Ceriatone, and Suhr and guess what all that remain are Marshall’s and Germino Lead 55. I personally feel out of all the boutique builders Germino is the one that offers a true vintage plexi amp. I found the rest to be more of a modded Marshall affair and honestly some where not that reliable at all.

    HW vs PCB equals two things: easier to mod and cheaper to work on.

    Personally, if I were you I’d get a nice pre effects loop 1959slp, have a lar/mar installed and don’t look back. I put NOS Blackburn Glass in mine, did a switchblade tone stack, switchable NFB, split/shared cathode push pull which allows me to switch between a plexiglass tone stack and a metal panel tone stack and the split/shared super bass or super lead and honestly it hangs toe to toe with two unmolested 69 and 73 super leads that i own and sounds much better then a lot of the high dollar boutique amps.
     
  4. EndGame00

    EndGame00 Well-Known Member

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    PPIMV mod should provide you that cranked Plexi tone without disintegrating pets and young children...

    I have a Fargen 1968 Super Lead/Bass clone and it has been a workhorse for me .. been able to dime both volume and MV to get that glorious pissed off Plexi roar.... I could also do it with the MV around 2 or 3...
     
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  5. pedecamp

    pedecamp Well-Known Member

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    Get a Super Lead and have PPIMV installed that's all you gotta do. :yesway:
     
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  6. grainman

    grainman Well-Known Member

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    the 1959slp with pcb is based on the 68 version and not metal panel like some people think....its a beast i own one with the effects loop and i really dig it....if stolen i will try to find another slp with the loop caus i use it a lot...and i dont like as much the hw version but its my own thing
     
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  7. 2203xman

    2203xman Well-Known Member

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    I love my 1987x pre loop.I have tried it with OD pedals,and have installed two different master volumes.The ppimv to my ears was harsh,and robbed the amp of it's presence.The Jackson type was decent,but you need a gain mod with it.I keep going back to the attenuator . It's not a perfect solution,but gives me the most smile factor . I've learned to eq most any side effect fizz out with my 10 band.I have heard good tones with the ppimv,but I believe they had the extra gain mod,and a few component value tweaks.On it's own it lasted about three hours in my amp,before I put it back stock.
     
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  8. ampmadscientist

    ampmadscientist Well-Known Member

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    Start the reactor... Free Mars!
    You don't want to buy any Plexi without seeing the entire insides of it. You have no idea what you are paying for until you see the insides.

    The Plexi won't sound good until it's volume is up to 7 or higher for output tube distortion.
    Otherwise it sounds pretty lame.
    At 7 it's loud as shit which makes a Plexi pretty useless for most players.

    You are better off getting one of the 20 watt re-issues and being realistic with the volume and tone, it will work out better.
     
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  9. ampmadscientist

    ampmadscientist Well-Known Member

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    Start the reactor... Free Mars!
    (PPIMV is kind of: so-so compared to output tube distortion)
    I really don't like PPIMV compared to cranking the amp up, it's a compromise which spoils the real tone of the thing.
     
  10. Buzzard

    Buzzard Well-Known Member

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    Thanks much, there's alot of misunderstanding,misinformation and differing opinions on plexi's.Probably moreso than any other amp. Some love ppimv's, especially someone recently touting the trainwreck 3 ppimv,some believe in driving them with a pedal, and some even gig with them and say they are fine in clubs. Guess you've just gotta try.
     
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  11. pedecamp

    pedecamp Well-Known Member

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    So the 1959 reissues are based off the 68 version?
     
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  12. pedecamp

    pedecamp Well-Known Member

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    Exactly, try is the only way to see what you like. I tried an attenuator on my 2204 and found I got better tone with OD pedals and low volume instead of cranking the amp with an attenuator. Also had a 1987x for a short while and it had a ppimv and it sounded fantastic. So at least I know what I like from trying. :yesway:
     
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  13. lespaul339

    lespaul339 Well-Known Member

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    When I built my jtm 45 I put a Lar Mar master volume in the back in one of the speaker out holes. Would highly recommend it. Makes these amps usable at any volume you want and it sounds great. Very easy mod to do too.
     
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  14. EndGame00

    EndGame00 Well-Known Member

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    How do you set your EQ and Treble/Normal Volumes with your Super Lead?
     
  15. Chris4189

    Chris4189 Well-Known Member

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    No, it’s totally not.

    The plexiglass super leads for instance used 57k slope resistor and 250pf capacitor combo exclusively until 1968 then they switched to 33k/500pf. The NFB changed from 47k on 8 ohm tap to 100k on 4 ohm tap, the brights cap values changed and the filtering changed from 16/16 on pre amp to 33/33 and finally to 50/50, screens went from 32/32 to 50/50 and the power stayed at 100 I believe?

    The 1958slp and 1987x use the 33k/500pf combo and 50/50 filters. The filters are more of a feel thing (tighter) then a tone thing.

    The 1959slp and 1987x are basically reissues of the early 70’s metal panel super leads and the HW is more ‘69 then ‘68.

    At the end of the day again they aren’t that night and day different from each other. The metal panels break up earlier and are a little more aggressive due to change in NFB and maybe a little due to the transformers changing from paper to nylon but to say the 1959slp is a reissue of a ‘68 12,000 is wrong because it’s not. The values prove that, they break up faster and they are brighter.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2019
  16. Chris4189

    Chris4189 Well-Known Member

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    Everything on 10 running thru input 1 (high impedance).
     
  17. Chris4189

    Chris4189 Well-Known Member

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    Personally, I set the lar/mar at noon and use a power station to knock it down bit from there and find that using the two in conjunction with one another works extremely well. I can play at home that way or play out that way without being too loud and without sucking tone. People get into trouble with these amps when they attenuate them down to whisper levels. Any amp sounds like crap attenuated down that low IMHO.
     
  18. pedecamp

    pedecamp Well-Known Member

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    The reason I ask is I have another thread asking about the different configurations, maybe you can way in on it for me, heres the thread: http://www.marshallforum.com/threads/ceriatone-plexi-50-lead.108544/
     
  19. EndGame00

    EndGame00 Well-Known Member

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    I could never dime the EQ without sounding "ratty"...

    I usually set mine like this:

    P - 6
    B - 6
    M - 9
    T - 5
    Pr/vol - 8.5
    MV - 4 or 5
     
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  20. Chris4189

    Chris4189 Well-Known Member

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    Sure man.

    I’ll keep it simple and not bore you with the numerous value changes. There wasn’t that many.

    Think of it very basic, as they years went by the amp broke up sooner and became a little more aggressive. This comes from the value changes, negative feedback changes and a little from the iron change. For a while some of the supers got WIMA chicklet caps vs Mustards and some people say the chicklets are a little more aggressive then the mustards.

    The filtering changes made the amps go from lose feeling to tighter feeling but tone wise not significant.

    Super bass vs Super Lead- The differences in tone is very minimal. The super lead will percieve a bit more gain because it's got more treble and seems a bit more aggressive in the upper mids.

    If you are looking at 50 watters basically here is the overall differences vs a 100 watter: less headroom, more mids and quicker breakup.

    If you have an SV20 a 1986 (50 watt bass head) would be a nice compliment and give you a little different sound. Think Dickey Betts vs Duane on the early ABB stuff. Dickey played a 100 watter and Duane played a 1986.

    If you are strictly going by the years a 1969 super lead is probably the most versatile.

    Or just become a hoarder like me and collect them all and realize they aren’t that different from one another.
     
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