N00b Question Glue/repair

Discussion in 'Cabinets & Speakers' started by Dogs of Doom, Feb 2, 2019.

  1. Dogs of Doom

    Dogs of Doom Moderator Staff Member

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    I picked up a cab for cheap:

    svt410.png

    The cardboard surrounds on the speakers are loose/hanging & on 1 speaker (bottom right) speaker pretty much gone.

    My question is what kind of glue? Doing searches, I see mostly rubber cement as a paper glue. I'm thinking the glue needs to stay somewhat pliable? Also, I'm wondering where I can get some replacement cardboard for a 10" speaker - I believe Eminence for Ampeg?

    Back, when I was a kid, I used to use rubber cement on speakers to micky mouse them, but it always looked pretty bad.

    Is there a recommended glue & what's a good source for that & the surround?
     
  2. Dogs of Doom

    Dogs of Doom Moderator Staff Member

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    Also. I have an idea...

    I'm thinking I might remove the front baffle & make the cab have an 18" Celestion w/ an 8" Ampeg midrange.

    On not so n00bish questions, I was reading a review of this cab, where people were reporting a fart issue on lower "C" notes. A guy from Ampeg piped in & said something about ported cab's work easier w/ solid state amp's, but tube amp's, because of their more raw power, can create unstable excursion issues.

    I remember when I bought my 1st SVT, I was running a Peavey rig w/ an 1820 cab. That speaker farted all the time, similarly. When I was talking to the guy that I bought the head from, he said, that he thought: "Peavey's just aren't wound as tight, or something" talking about the Black Widow, whichever version was available in around 1992, but, it also had 2- 10" Scorpions. I couldn't tell you which speakers were farting, or if all were.

    When I got my 1st fridge, I had no problem, then never looked back, then ended up buying all the SVT gear that Tim had left at the time.

    So, in my highly-detailed, long-winded question, if I was to do the 18" baffle, should I not port it?

    I'd rather use tube than solid state. It would be experimental, but the cab seems like it would house the 18+8 & could make a kick ass cab. I just wonder how much work to do the conversion...
     
  3. Wooferhead1

    Wooferhead1 Well-Known Member

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    Lord of Bass sells "Black Rubber Speaker Glue" not sure how pliable it is....
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2019
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  4. chiliphil1

    chiliphil1 Well-Known Member

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    Imo, I would suggest starting without a port. See how you like the performance, if you feel that it would benefit from a port then add one but it’s easier to do that than to remove one.

    I would say that it also depends a lot on the requirements of the speaker vs the cubic inches of the cabinet. Needs some math for sure.
     
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  5. Dogs of Doom

    Dogs of Doom Moderator Staff Member

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    that site seems to be problematic...
     
  6. Dogs of Doom

    Dogs of Doom Moderator Staff Member

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  7. Wooferhead1

    Wooferhead1 Well-Known Member

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    Sorry about that...I deleted it...
     
  8. Dogs of Doom

    Dogs of Doom Moderator Staff Member

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    no problem, I ordered it, so we'll see what happens... :)...

    thanks!
     
  9. stringtree

    stringtree Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Feb 2, 2019
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  10. Dogs of Doom

    Dogs of Doom Moderator Staff Member

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    there's a thread around here somewhere, where either pleximaster or neikel refurb'ed a cone that was pretty tore up & meshed in some paper, but I couldn't find it...
     
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  11. stringtree

    stringtree Well-Known Member

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    I watched a video clip of someone using a paper towel and black finger nail polish to coat it.. When they tested it, to me it didn't sound so good, so I passed on that vid. That first vid, that guy address the flubby tone, he wouldn't say farting. LOL His fix is outside the box, and no sound sample, but I think it opens one up to new possibility's.
     
  12. ampmadscientist

    ampmadscientist Well-Known Member

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    Start the reactor... Free Mars!
    The cardboard part is the gasket, not the surround.
    The accordion part around the cone outside is the surround.
    Both are replaceable.
    The glue most often used is industrial contact cement.

    (contact cement: apply to both halves of the assembly, let dry, then press together)

    http://www.speakerworks.com/speaker-gaskets-s/71.htm


    The trick is cleaning the old glue off first. This is usually done with MEK or Acetone.

    I have re-foamed / re-gasket ed many speakers. It takes some practice and patience. But it's doable.

    Many suppliers sell the surrounds and the gaskets....



    Then the last trick is to center the cone, so that it does not scrape when the speaker moves in / out.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2019
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  13. slide222

    slide222 Well-Known Member

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    I'm glad I found this thread as I will need speaker glue , when I work on a 65 with a wizzer
     
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  14. Dogs of Doom

    Dogs of Doom Moderator Staff Member

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    The cones are all 100% intact & working, just the cushions are loose/missing. I just don't want the cardboard flapping, & on the one missing, I figure that'll help hold the edges tight & excursion, etc. So, I'm not so sure about removing old glue or loosening the cone edging from the basket. I'll probably just alcohol the edges & apply glue.

    The contact cement, I wonder how that compares w/ the stuff I ordered? I mean, if it's cheap at Home Depot, then that'll be an easy buy...
     
  15. ampmadscientist

    ampmadscientist Well-Known Member

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    Start the reactor... Free Mars!
    Take the gaskets off.
    Remove the old surround and clean all the old glue off. (clean the glue off w/ MEK)
    Glue new surround on
    Center speaker and glue surround to frame (check to see that the speaker doesn't scrape when it moves)
    Glue gaskets back on

    Probably the most handy tools are:
    artists Palette knife
    wooden Clothes pins (used for clamping parts when drying the glue)

    [​IMG]
     
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  16. slide222

    slide222 Well-Known Member

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    I still haven't done this , thx dogs you reminded me , I've just gotta grow some and go for it
     
  17. ampmadscientist

    ampmadscientist Well-Known Member

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    Start the reactor... Free Mars!
    It does take practice but you can learn by doing it.
    The trick is to align the cone so that the voice coil doesn't scrape when the speaker moves in/out.
    This would be the most critical moment of gluing...but it is possible if I can do it so can you.
    I think I have saved at least 50 speakers by re-gluing the surround...
     
  18. soundboy57

    soundboy57 Well-Known Member

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    Indeed. Without the proper design math, you could blow out every speaker...flopping in the wind below port tuning frequency. Be careful :)
     
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  19. RLW59

    RLW59 Well-Known Member

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    Foam surrounds are replaceable (considered normal maintenance because foam falls apart eventually). Some JBLs (not all) and some CVs (not all) have foam surrounds.

    But most guitar and bass speakers have paper surrounds -- the pleats are stamped/molded into the same sheet of paper as the cone. They're often doped with a rubbery coating, but they aren't replaceable (except by replacing the whole cone).

    Those look like doped paper surrounds to me.
     
  20. slide222

    slide222 Well-Known Member

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    what is the best speaker glue to use , maybe one that gives me a couple of minutes to move it about and correctly aline, a contact glue that takes a few seconds to bond together, where I can fiddle abit
     

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