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Discussion in 'Marshall Amps' started by Exotic, Sep 11, 2019.
When I decided that I NEED a 4x12 cabinet, I did my research and decided that I would only accept a cabinet made properly of plywood. The back could be particle board or plywood but I wanted something that had plywood in the construction of the cabinet.
I discovered that Hartke G412 cabinets are of plywood construction and they tend to go for dirt cheap. I bought both of my Hartke cabinets for under 100 dollars each. (One angled, one straight front.)
Among Marshall cabinets I'll only consider a 1960, 1982, or 1935.
I ended up with a 1960A with G12T75s.
I put Celestion Greenbacks in my angled Hartke cabinet (GH412A, which I got first) and soon I'm going to swap the speakers between those two cabinets. Greenbacks to the Marshall 1960A, G12T75s to the Hartke GH412A.
I'll probably sell or trade off one or both Harke cabinets to get a Marshall bottom. (1960, 1982, or 1935 types)
Personal tastes differ, but personally I only want a 4x12 that's built on the Marshall model or close to it, with high quality plywood construction. Cabinets made of particle board
just don't hold any interest for me. Eventually they will turn back into particles. Sawdust, really.
I live in a state where the humidity is rarely below 75 percent. Particle board cabinets tend to swell up and turn back into particles in this environment.
I don’t have the humidity problem here in Southern California, and I have had the vintage early 70’s, late 70’s full stack’s before, but the budget was not there this time around, so I have grabbed the MG cabs.
I have been putting better speakers in them , but I am not finished!
what about the tipping over possibility of a marshall stack . do u ever worry about it? smaller shorter mg type stacks with no casters seem more stable than a taller 1960 type with both cabs using casters . is that right? don't u think marshall should have come up with something to keep stacks from falling over? for example after u stack them ,u should be able to throw a lever and they all lock together as in one big piece ,and the bottom cab should have stabilizing legs that come down when u pull them down to the floor . i have a stack now and i don't know what i will do with it ,just use the slant ? i'm in california and i'm afraid if i stack my amp in my room ,and it has to be right next to my bed cuz of clutter ,the head might fall on me while i'm asleep ,in case of the " big one"
Once you go stack you never go back.
So what is a VS412 cab worth?
Take the casters off when you've put the stack where it's going to be staying for a while. It's not like they're hard to put back on when needed.
When on GC used Marshall gear they are asking $220 on average but I had originally picked mine up for $100 .
None of mine the old vintage large stacks or the ones I have now, the MG stacks have ever tipped or dropped to the floor, nor have I ever dropped a head can.
I think your pretty safe but I only have casters on the B cab!
No words more true have ever been spoken
When it comes to two 4x12's I like to put them both on the ground further apart so it's almost like a stereo set-up (even though it's only one signal) the sound is spread out. Also, people don't realize how unstable a full stack is. They are so-easily knocked over and top-heavy. I've never played in a place even close to actually needing the power of a 100w full stack but they sound awesome.
come'on....you gotta learn how to do this by yourself in case nobody is around. I had to. Just put one hand on top and one on the bottom an LIFT. Don't use the handles at all when lifting it by yourself. And don't put your thumb through the grill cloth. This is another reason to keep them horizontal.
I'm 6'4" @ 240lbs..........I have no problem lifting the A cab on top of the B cab nor placing the amp head on top.
..........but I probably should not be attempting it at my age.
Thanks brother. I figured you all here could relate.
I am 6’ 220, and I have put them up with the side handles but no casters on the slant, and at my age I try not to do it very often, but now I am only dealing with the smaller MG cabs and they are nothing compared to my old full size cabs!
ok well this is it after a tiny bit of repair and obviously i'm not done yet.
so i find that bit about eddie van halen using 2 greenbacks and 2 jbls in one cab ,with the jbls on top and the greenbacks on the bottom very interesting . what are the rules for mixing speakers? i would imagine u can't use different ohm speakers they would all have to be 16 ohm ,or all 8 ohm . right? but ,what about the watts? do they have to match too? or do they use different watts speakers ? i can't understand johan segeborn ,what are the specs and names of the 2 different types of speakers . they sound different by themselves but much better together
here's the futura with 2 white pickups now
i read this somewhere.
As an owner of a 1960A, I can say that you should get either one and replace 2 of the speakers so that you have 2 v30s and 2 g12t's. REALLY awesome combo. I have heard each of the different speakers on their own plenty, and will say that the v30s produce too much in the high frequency range, and lack bass, while the g12t's are too bassy, but when you combine them it is orgasmic.
does this apply to me? my 1960bv has the equivalent of v30's right? and the jcm900 has the g12t-75's . so to mix them well is leaving them untouched in the cabs and running together in full stack enough? or do u have to mix them 2 and 2 in each cab to get the effect he is talking about ?
I've got a 4x12 cab with 2 V30s in closed back and 2 C90s in open back. I can run them together in mono, stereo, or run either pair individually. It's super versatile in the studio, and with all four blowing hard it's nothing short of bone-rattling amazing.
Having two different flavors of speakers in your rig (if they're the right combination) can be great.