18 Watt Build With 6v6's And Master Volume Help Please.

Discussion in 'The Workbench' started by RCP, Oct 9, 2016.

  1. myself80

    myself80 Active Member

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    Hello myersbw.
    Thank you! I used Photoshop for this layout. I brought in the layouts for a few different builds and cut and pasted the parts I needed :).
    It may not be the fastest method, but it works!

    Cheers!
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2016
  2. RCP

    RCP Member

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    Brad, is THIS relay board you used on your build?

    I definitely want the channel switching ability. The FX loop would be great but I think have my hands full already. Can it be added at a later time without too much trouble?

    Thanks so much to ALL of you guys for your replies, you're a great help.
    Rob
     
  3. Guitar-Rocker

    Guitar-Rocker Well-Known Member

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    This is not a TMB, rather a JTM-20, but is a 6v6.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  4. myersbw

    myersbw Well-Known Member

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    Yep, that's the one i used! And, you bet...can be added at any time. I'd suggest doing it that way just to make certain your base-build is set.
     
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  5. coldengray

    coldengray Active Member VIP Member

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    Great layout, I borrowed it for future use...hope you don't mind! :cheers:
     
  6. myself80

    myself80 Active Member

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    That's why I posted it! :) :). It is a great sounding little (loud) amp.
    Credit for the idea goes to guitar-rocker. :) He got me through the build!

    Cheers!
     
  7. myersbw

    myersbw Well-Known Member

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    And, yes, fabulous build! I contacted Steve Snyder @ Mojotone...he's the one behind the Lerxt line of amps. His Chi model is a 6V6 build, too... search Youtube for a demo. It's a different tone for a 6V6 build. Very nice!
     
  8. RCP

    RCP Member

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    Well the kit is here and I'm struggling to decide if I should enlarge the noval socket holes to octal size.

    I've heard great examples of both sides of the coin and I'm having a hell of a time trying to decide.

    I do have a set of Groove Tubes octal to 9 pin adapters so I could install octal sockets and then simply plug the adapters in and run the EL84's in the 8 pin sockets.

    Grrrrrrr, this sux ;)
     
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  9. RCP

    RCP Member

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    Thats what I'll do then.
    Thanks again Brad!
     
  10. RCP

    RCP Member

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    Beautiful work Guitar-Rocker! Would you happen to have any audio clips?
    Rob.
     
  11. myersbw

    myersbw Well-Known Member

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    Anytime, Rob! Here's some food for thought that'll make the decision even worse. :O If you do open it up for octals...you're a transformer and modest changes to pop 5881's in... :O LOL! I'm likely doing that with my next build...same kit chassis...custom built head cab (I have that)...I've got the higher voltage (original) JTM45 PT & OT...just need time...
     
  12. RCP

    RCP Member

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    Gee. Thanks for making things so much easier. ; )~
    Well, I hope I haven't disappoint or upset anyone that has offered their advice but I started on the build last night and I decided to stay with the stock EL84's. Every EL84 amplifier I've owned (which is not too many) has farted out at high volume but from what I gathered this build shouldn't do that. This remains to be seen. I can always go to octals at any time so it wouldn't be the end of the world.

    I made a bit of progress last night and got the hardware installed.

    I've never done a turret board build before, only eyelet boards and terminal strip builds so I could use some guidance on when and where to put the components. I see some pictures with the component leads wrapped 3/4 around the bottom of the turret lug and then I see others that install the components directly into the top hole of the lug.

    I'd appreciate any insight on which way is correct/best and why so I can get started on the board.
    Thanks again all. You guys have been a great help so far. I appreciate it very much.
    Heres a couple pics with the hardware installed.
    Rob. Top.JPG Front.JPG
     
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  13. Guitar-Rocker

    Guitar-Rocker Well-Known Member

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    Most wrap the wire around the bottom of the turret and the component leads go into the hole. Some components, like large flat ceramic style caps lay better on the board, and can be bottom wrapped. It's your choice, no wrong here.
     
  14. Guitar-Rocker

    Guitar-Rocker Well-Known Member

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    I don't on that amp, but this 22Watt JTM45 6V6 called the Angus, I do. However the Angus has more headroom and is fixed bias.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



     
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  15. RCP

    RCP Member

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    Thanks for the reply.
    It just looks to me that the inside of the turret lug would hold and waste a lot of solder. I'm guessing that you dont fill the lug with solder, rather just enough on the top to hold the component in place???

    The Angus sounds fantastic. Goes from clean to mean very nicely.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2016
  16. myself80

    myself80 Active Member

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    Looking good so far! Nice job.
     
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  17. myself80

    myself80 Active Member

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    THX! I will check this out later. I was suprised how nice these tubes sounded. Never palyed a 6V6 amp before this one :).

    Cheers!
     
  18. myersbw

    myersbw Well-Known Member

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    RCP, if Mojo kept the turret board the same width, you may find you won't have much, if an, lead to wrap. (If the components have the same lead length as the kit I got. I had just enough to either bend into the turret center or to just lay there in place. So...I'd lay my components in the center and wrap the wire.

    Given the mass, a nice Weller (or similar) temp-controlled workstation was very nice to have so boosting the temps didn't take long.
     
  19. myersbw

    myersbw Well-Known Member

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  20. RCP

    RCP Member

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    I'm only up to V1b Brad but so far there's been enough lead and then some on most lugs but I did have to extend a resistor with buss wire to make it around the lug but it doesn't show because the 68nf coupling cap is about as big around as a beer can. The thing is huge.
    I'll post a pic when I'm finished with the board. I have a couple of Hakko soldering stations. My trusty Hakko 936 and a newer Hakko 888 with the analog temp control. Both are fine units that work flawlessly. I also use a 2.5 mm chisel tip so it transfers heat nicely. Get in, get it done and get out quickly. I even use the same size and style tip for wiring my pickups with the very thin # 42-46 gauge magnet wire and it works great.

    As for the link to your cab it says " Marshall Amp Forum - Error
    You do not have permission to view media within this album"

    I measured the Mojo chassis mounting holes against a Marshall JMP box that I have and the mounting holes are off by about 3/4"
    I wanted a small-box cabinet anyhow so I can get that from Mojo with red tolex for about $190.

    More pics coming soon.
    Getting psyched about this build.
    Thanks all.
    Rob.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2016

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