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Unread 12-23-2013, 01:57 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Glue For Tolex? & Other Questions

Hey All,
I know this has been asked and answered, but search was not my friend today. I realize that I can get "genuine" Tolex glue form suppliers and wait for it after paying a semi premium $$ for it claiming to be "Tolex" glue, but I kinda have to believe that other products readily available at Blowes or Home Cheapo are similar enough to be suitable? What works best and is easiest to work with? Spray, roll/brush-on, contact style? Also, any tips on how to do a cab with front to rear seam piping? I understand the concept, I'm simply looking for practical advice and procedural sequence. In this case I'm doing a head cab but have a few speakers to tackle also. Am I correct in the assumption that the Tolex does not need to be cut/seamed at each piping and that the only actual seam required is where the 2 ends of the Tolex meet?
Thanx For All Replies,
Gene
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Unread 12-23-2013, 02:13 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Glue For Tolex? & Other Questions

either of these should work-

3M General Purpose Spray Adhesive, 10.25 oz: Office : Walmart.com

**3M
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Unread 12-23-2013, 02:38 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Glue For Tolex? & Other Questions

blues-n-cues,
Yep, that's kinda what I figured. Still looking' for tips on technique, procedure, etc. on the piping seams?
Gene
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Unread 12-23-2013, 04:44 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Glue For Tolex? & Other Questions

I've never done one but, on a head box with with the piping on top, I would be tempted to start at the right hand piping groove go all the way around the bottom of the box and up the other side finishing at the left hand groove. Cut with slight overlap at each groove. Then cut a piece to do the top between the piping again with slight overlap. Once it's all stuck down and secure, run some glue into the groove, tap the piping into place and you should have a finish with no visible joins / overlaps.
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Unread 12-23-2013, 05:33 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Glue For Tolex? & Other Questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene Ballzz View Post
blues-n-cues,
Yep, that's kinda what I figured. Still looking' for tips on technique, procedure, etc. on the piping seams?
Gene
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Unread 12-23-2013, 06:02 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Glue For Tolex? & Other Questions

Piping can be a pain - the trick is to make sure the tolex covers the channel that the piping goes in. So I would often rout a 1/8 inch channel for the piping and then make sure the piece of tolex covers to the far edge of the gap for both pieces. When you push or tap the piping into place the pressure should hold it in place. I wait until the glue dries to do this - sometimes a bulge can occur next to the piping of you do not.

I tried spray adhesives and rubber cement. I have found that you need to wait and really let those glues dry before you attach them to each other - sometimes they end up gummy and not really sticky. This depends on your location and relative humidity.

I, most often, use hot hide glue. It is a pain to mix, but is the most reliable for me in the long run.

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Unread 12-23-2013, 07:16 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Glue For Tolex? & Other Questions

any contact adhesive will work. but dont go for the highest strength you can find, because there are areas where you need to glue down the tolex and then pull it back off to cut the seam. if you use a high strength glue it will pull all your wood filler off with it and possibly bits of wood too.

also it needs to go on very smoothly & thinly so you dont get any lumps.

the stuff advertised as tolex glue is good but way too expensive. find a cheaper alternative, look for low viscosity (runny) neoprene based adhesive and it should do the trick. use a roller and a couple of disposable paint brushes for the awkward areas.

make sure it has gone completely touch dry before bringing the surfaces together.

i found this stuff, which i havent tried yet, but think should work fine:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...ive-1ltr/34758

its only 7.59 per litre.

i would not recommend spray adhesive.
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Unread 12-23-2013, 12:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Glue For Tolex? & Other Questions

I usually use contact cement. It's been the most reliable for me. Hot hide glue is also awesome, but a little more involved as far as mixing and heating- I would use this all the time if I had a good setup for it.
I've also used pressure sensitive glue which worked fairly well, but was a little more messy. That stuff is nice though becuase you can reposition it fairly easy. Then you can just roll it really heavily and it will hold very strongly.
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Unread 12-26-2013, 03:30 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Glue For Tolex? & Other Questions

This shits unreal !!!
The best imo ....


Aerosol Adhesive :3M US
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Unread 03-04-2014, 10:14 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Glue For Tolex? & Other Questions

I know this is an old thread but I thought I would post my findings as nothing is more frustrating about tolexing than using a glue that doesn't work worth a crap. I have tried most everything only to settle on one type of contact cement. I tried the 3M stuff. 3M 90 works good but super expensive, plus I wouldn't use a spray adhesive. Although it sound great, you always get patchy overloaded areas that tend to bubble; especially when using the heavy duty stuff like 3M 90 or Lepage blue can spray. They have a thicker spray which is good for avoiding over spray, but bad for even spray patterns.

Use LePage blue can "brush on" contact cement. It is solvent based but the fumes are not that bad, especially when using it in open areas. It also doesn't harm the tolex. It is also available almost everywhere. It also has a nice setup time at 15 mins. It is also super strong and your tolex will not lift or loosen over time. It is the strongest stuff I have used to date and I have used a lot of different stuff.

http://dashboard.lepageproducts.com/...-Cement%20.jpg
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Unread 03-04-2014, 11:59 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: Glue For Tolex? & Other Questions

as mentioned in my previous post, you dont want mega high strength glue for tolexing. you will get into trouble when you have to re-lift the tolex for the corner seams, especially if you have used wood filler on those areas. because it will just come off when you lift the tolex up with that high strength glue on it, and may bring some wood off too.

the expensive white glue sold by most places as "tolex glue" is actually not very strong at all, but works fine. you are only sticking tolex to wood, not sticking combine harvesters together.

use the best glue for the job, not the strongest you can find.
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Unread 03-04-2014, 11:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Re: Glue For Tolex? & Other Questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by george76 View Post
you are only sticking tolex to wood, not sticking combine harvesters together.

use the best glue for the job, not the strongest you can find.
lol, well said.
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Unread 03-05-2014, 08:32 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Re: Glue For Tolex? & Other Questions

Really? I have been using this stuff for a long time and never had problems with lifting back tolex for the seams. Maybe you are waiting too long before doing the seams. No need to wait for the adhesive to fully cure before doing seams.

George76, strong glue is important because the strong stuff will still be holding after 40+ years whereas the water based crap they sell now a days will probably be lifting and bubbling. Water based stuff, that never seems to fully dry, is good for working on your kids Halloween costumes; not for tolexing a road worthy amplifier capable of outliving the guy who built it. Experience is pretty important when tolexing too. If you have to reposition tolex after you applied it to the amplifier then you need a lot more practice before you should attempt an amp with the real stuff...

Edit: Oh and just to throw this out there, Marshall and Fender either used solvent based high strength glue or animal glue.

Last edited by jgab; 03-05-2014 at 01:43 PM.
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Unread 03-05-2014, 08:53 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Re: Glue For Tolex? & Other Questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by george76 View Post
any contact adhesive will work. but dont go for the highest strength you can find, because there are areas where you need to glue down the tolex and then pull it back off to cut the seam. if you use a high strength glue it will pull all your wood filler off with it and possibly bits of wood too.
I used the same spray adhesive I used to re-carpet my Lotus to re-glue long tattered pieces on my B cabinet. It's like liquid chewing gum when it comes out of the can and gives you a few minutes to arrange your piece before it dries too much.

It's great for delicate work where you need to be sure everything is straight before it dries. I'm quite sure it won't remove the wood grain if it gets peeled off, and it's resistant to high heat and bitter cold. It may be the same 3-M product Blues-n-cues mentioned; read the can and see if it's for automotive carpeting.

Ken
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