The Grim Peeper

Ok Im making a 1x12 cab based on the cab dimensions of my dsl 401 only im gonna stain and varnish the whole thing with a nice brass handle. I have had this WGS veteran 30 laying around for a couple years and I decided to put it to good use. So basically Im talking about a 401 sized cab with a wgs vet 30 which is 60 watts and 16 ohms. Ideally I would also like to be able to play my DSL 50 head through it at small room type rehersals because my 1960 is just to much sometimes. So far I have decided to use 3/4 pine for all the side. Im looking for suggestion for the back panel and the baffle Im thinking oak ply or birch. Also I was thinking of making it a 3 piece back so I could take of the middle panel to make it an open back or closed. Ive never done grill cloth but I want some dark brown on this one. Is there an easy way to put grill cloth in front of the baffle. I was thinking just recessing the baffle and using screen trim to easy attach some grill cloth. Any suggestions. Heres a pick of my progress really its just the pine sides with wood glue. Thanks for looking



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woodddj

Your fish are saying ( oh shit!!! Hope the weights don't roll off and crash our home ) lol

The Grim Peeper

HAha that fish tank is actually much further back then it looks!

JohnH

I built a 1x12 for my dsl401. Here it is. The combined rig sounds huge with the open combo and closed back bass-ported cab
J

GuitarNutz 2 - Speaker cab for electric and acoustic

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Brother J

I would cut the baffle board about 1/8" undersize of the inside dimension of the cab. Staple the grille cloth to the baffle board. Frame the front of the cabinet on the inside so the baffle board can butt up against it. Attach the baffle board, via screws, to the framing. Re the back, run two strips of wood olong the vertical sides and attach the three horizontal planks. I would also reinforce the glued joints with screws and/or internal bracing. I made a 1x12 a few months ago out of some old cherry planking. I used simple glue and screws for the butt joint. Didn't yet have a dovetail jig. Someday, I will pull the screws and insert some oak dowel pins to give it a more elegant, refined look.

The Grim Peeper

Nice cab man. Thats pretty much the same thing I wanna make so I just stole your idea for the front lip and baffle configuration. What kind of wood did you use on the baffle? Personally I want to use birchplywood but I would very much like to save some money. Does anyone know if there is any great sounding less expensive birch alternative that sounds the same. I want to make it sound as good as possible without spending alot. Im going to recess the back panel using 1 inch square stock wood as a resting plate and screw on to it three separate panel pieces so I can play with different open back configurations. Also any suggestions for a backboard material. Birch plywood is possible as well however id like to keep a tight budget. Here is my front I just glued in place.




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The Grim Peeper

Would it really Sound that bad if I just used pine plywood for the baffle and backplate? What would be the tonal differences between birch and pine. Would I or anyone really be able to tell the difference?

fendrix_81

hi
i just finish my 1x12 cab
i used brazilian pine wood, and dimension are 42x40x25
i use a g12m 25 and, a carvin quad x preamp and peavey classic 50 50.
the sound wich i use is quite warm and smooth highs, and i can not to close the cab because it sound like a soobwofer when it is close, but with open it sound full of tone and with more volume.
brazilian pine wood may is good wood, and i noticed that, i used 2 different piece of wood "the same wood" and when i it it, one sound with more volume "on the side" and over and down has less volume.

Brother J

Grim, I think you'll be fine with a cheaper grade of plywood for the baffle and back boards. Doubt there will be a discernible difference in tonal quality between them. Looking good so far.

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The Grim Peeper

I ended up buying the birch it seems really heavy and like it would be really solid for a baffle. I was looking next for some grill cloth and Im finding that it is not cheap so Im looking to get creative. Has any used anything in place of grill cloth or has anyone found a place that sells it cheap.?

microhead

void free ply is the best, and recommended for cabs. the reason is this: over time adhesives will begin losing a little integrity. any voids can create a place where little bits of wood can get into and cause some rattling. you will be putting your cab through quite a bit of vibration, making this potential problem very likely. also, the properties of solid woods that make them desirable for instruments are the exact opposite for cabs. you want your cab to reflect, not resonate- that's the speaker's job. any energy turned into cab vibration is lost from the speaker output. now that is all well and good in a lab, but the reality of it all is that nothing i mentioned is likely to be apparent in a single 12 cab for lower powered jams. i thought it worthwhile to mention these things, but FWIW i think your cab will rock. i read somewhere, maybe linked from here- i can't remember- that Jim himself was speaking on cabs and said that a good driver, a rigid cab, and secure mounting are really the three most important factors.

on a secondary, and somewhat less important note, if you build with any regularity-or plan to- check out Boltdepot.com . great prices, and paypal.

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RickyLee

Wow . . . Blast from the past for me. I used a Quad X preamp and T100 stereo power amp with a Quadraverb in the FX loop for my main gigging rig for 10 years.

The Grim Peeper

Ok I just rushed production tonight getting everything together after work to see if I could finish it and I did. I used burlap to cover the baffle and stained and added the speaker and jack pluggs and screwed the whole thing together and played it as soon as I was done and all I can say is HOLY SHIT!. The room became this cab!!! It filled up the room with the best sounding tone I have ever heard from my les paul It almost sounded perfect.My girlfriend said it gave her goose bump. IT is about the most opposite of stirile sounding that ive ever heard in an electirc guitar. I love this ****ing thing already. BTW I started by plugging the DSL 50 head first and holy ****balls did it sound great!!!


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GIBSON67

Good job, and quick turn around. Looks good...

I would add some more screws to the back panel and maybe add a handle and maybe one more coat of stain.

The Grim Peeper

yeah i didnt finish the clear coat and stuff yet cause i was really excited to hear sound of it. Im gonna put some poly on it. But im not all that concered with appearences as you can tell from the burlap LOL Im just making it as a vintage looking beater but im loving it so far.

GIBSON67

I am sure it was very satisfying hearing it for the first time...like X-Mas as a kid.

My first build was a 1x15, that ended up later as a 1x12. I made it a lot heavier than yours looks, and I did tolex it with some vinyl and added a black grill cloth, I even made a tag for the back. I calked all the seams and basically overdid everything before I finally dismantled it one day when i thought I had too much gear. Since then I've made a 4x10 Bassman cab(dismantled after I got a Marshall 4x12), and 2 1x15 EV bass cabs(still in use) since then that are way better than it ever was...

But my point, don't sweat it, you can always add/change or build another later.

The Grim Peeper

You can never have too much gear cabs and such I guess.Uhhh hmmmm haveing trouble concentrating your avatar is very distracting!

The Grim Peeper

Yeah ive started on a 2x12 cab now and im using the two peavey blue marvels that I took out of a classic 50. Im going to make another closed back cab much like a marshall 1936 in size. I was wondering about quality electronics parts. For my 1x12 I just used some radio jacks for the input to the speaker. I see alot of real quality looking plugs and jacks and such online. My question is would it be wise to get highe quality 1/4 speaker jacks or is it all about the same?

GIBSON67

It wouldn't hurt...

I've used all sorts of jacks, no real difference to me, but I am sure you will pay for what you get...IE...cheap jacks might break or lose contact. To me the higher the power supplied, the better the components you want.

HumanJHawkins

Nice work. The only thing I would do differently next time would be to put the input jack near an edge instead of the center. Not sure it would even be noticeable, but the thought is that the back is an intentionally resonating surface. Put your finger in the middle of a drum head and tap the drum. Then put your finger near the edge and tap it. That's the difference attaching things to the center vs. the edge will make on pretty much anything that resonates.